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Suworov Pfeiler 6b
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 2
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Routes in Schöllenen Main Cliff
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Diagonale 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Geburtstagsweg 6a+ T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Suworov Pfeiler 6b T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wädlichlimser 6b+ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | D Nottidge, A Wielochowski |
| Page Views: | 868 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Colin Winter on Jul 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
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Description
This route is, for Schöllenen standards, uncharacteristically lacking in friction slabs.
The line is wonderfully homogeneous and entertaining throughout. Highlight of the route is hands down (or in, as it were) the splitter 40 meter crack it follows in pitch two.
P1: 5b
P2: 5c+
P3: 5b+
P4: 6a
P5/P6: ~5c/6a *
P7/P8: ~6b *
Topo we had was prior to refurbishing, and included only the first four pitches. Routefinding is straightforward, however.
The line is wonderfully homogeneous and entertaining throughout. Highlight of the route is hands down (or in, as it were) the splitter 40 meter crack it follows in pitch two.
P1: 5b
P2: 5c+
P3: 5b+
P4: 6a
P5/P6: ~5c/6a *
P7/P8: ~6b *
Topo we had was prior to refurbishing, and included only the first four pitches. Routefinding is straightforward, however.
Location
Facing the cliffs, this is the very last route on the left, some distance from the most well known and popular routes. Just look for the signature crack in pitch two. It shares belays on numerous occasions with Cyclope, a beastly slab affair to the right, so when in doubt always stay on the route to the left. Descent is by abseil down the route.
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