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Little Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
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Blueberries T 
My Wife's Pajamas T,TR 
Popeye Effect, The T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Suspiciously Delicious 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 261
Submitted By: Matt Westlake on May 13, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Apologies for the goofy half photo, but figured it...

Description 

This is a route once described to me as "sport climbing on gear". One of those lines that looks kind of improbable on the ground because it's hard to see the holds and where gear might go.

Go up the right side face of the prow following some broken up verticalish cracks to a big move establishing you under the roof. Traverse hard left out to a pancake jug and pull the lip at the point. Continue to the top on moderate low angle terrain and belay from a tree.

Location 

From the amphitheater head up trail in the Sentinel Buttress direction, pass the mini-amphitheater and shortly after look for the stunning white prow of rock.

Protection 

Small to mid-sized cams, a nut or two and perhaps a #2 (red) ball nut prior to the first horizontal deadpoint up to the right side jug before the traverse under the roof.


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By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
May 15, 2012

There is a key gear placement on this route that is, aptly, suspicious. Be wary of the horizontal that protects the move straight up to the jug rail traverse. This flexes under load and, although I've seen it hold a fall, falling on that gear seems unwise.