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Suspension Bridge Arete T 

Suspension Bridge Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Harvey, 1956
Page Views: 133
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Sep 5, 2011

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Description 

A sustained single pitch, starting up a pocketed line about 5m to the right of the arete. Climb the pockets straight up to a ledge running diagonally left towards the arete and follow this to a wide groove/depression running directly up. Some interesting moves involving stemming in the depression (protected by a good thread) gain the crux of the route. From there, either make a few moves left to the tree anchor around the arete or continue upwards to an alternative anchor at a metal post a few metres higher.

If descending from the tree, it is worth flicking the abseil rope back to around the right of the arete to avoid landing in a patch of brambles!

Location 

Start from on top of the road tunnel, about 5m to the right of the arete, up a pocketed line. Descent is via abseil off a fixed anchor on a tree 30m up, or a metal post a few metres higher. A 60m rope will get you down from the tree, but double ropes are recommended if you're descending from the higher anchor.

Protection 

Nuts + larger gear up to 3" can also be placed, as well as tricams in the pockets.


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