Suspension Bridge Arete 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Mike Harvey, 1956 |
| Submitted By: | Nick Russell on Sep 5, 2011 |
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Graeme on the abseil descent from Suspension Bridg...
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Description A sustained single pitch, starting up a pocketed line about 5m to the right of the arete. Climb the pockets straight up to a ledge running diagonally left towards the arete and follow this to a wide groove/depression running directly up. Some interesting moves involving stemming in the depression (protected by a good thread) gain the crux of the route. From there, either make a few moves left to the tree anchor around the arete or continue upwards to an alternative anchor at a metal post a few metres higher. If descending from the tree, it is worth flicking the abseil rope back to around the right of the arete to avoid landing in a patch of brambles!
Location Start from on top of the road tunnel, about 5m to the right of the arete, up a pocketed line. Descent is via abseil off a fixed anchor on a tree 30m up, or a metal post a few metres higher. A 60m rope will get you down from the tree, but double ropes are recommended if you're descending from the higher anchor.
Protection Nuts + larger gear up to 3" can also be placed, as well as tricams in the pockets.
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