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Stuck in the Middle With You 
Suspender Man 
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Thank Heaven for Little Girls 
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Suspender Man 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,115
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Sep 28, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Lisa working the moves on Suspender Man....

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Suspender Man is easy to find. Hike east along the base of the cliff until you come to a huge slab of limestone leaning up against the main wall. Suspender Man tackles the back side of this slab. It's a fun (though short) route on cool overhanging pockets - and it's unbelieveably slippery. Very different from most of the stuff at the Dark Side, and definitely worth doing.


Can't remember if it's 4 or 5 bolts. I think it's 4. 2 bolt anchor at the top.

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Ian Achey on Suspender Man. <br />
Ian Achey on Suspender Man.
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By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Oct 12, 2001

Don't let the rating Matt has palced on here fool you. It is harder than 5.11, I think it is solid 11c/d as the guide book states, an excellent route which is steeper than is looks from the ground. One of my favorites in the Dark Side. 3 Stars.

By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Jan 4, 2002

At least 11d if not 12a and getting more polished at the start all the time. Great climb and a great hang-out when the weather gets hot.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
May 26, 2005
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

This thing is all of 11d...especially if you're a thin face techno-weenie like myself (and most Shelf climbers). This thing must have been really popular back in the day to have rock that polished. It's the most polished route I've seen at Shelf! Really good rock, though and a cool crux.

By erik wellborn
From: manitou springs
Aug 11, 2008

Fun route. Steep and polished, more like Rifle than Shelf. 11d seems pretty stout.

By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Aug 25, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Great route! A V4-ish boulder problem past the first two bolts leads into easier, but still steep and tough climbing. Definitely stiff for the grade... I wouldn't feel too bad calling it 5.12a, and this is my style. Might be harder if you're short.
A stick clip is wise for the first bolt, and prehanging the draw on the second bolt makes that clip a lot less reachy.

By eric larson
From: aurora, co
Sep 29, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Once you figured out the beta on the reachy move, this felt pretty 11d. It's just very atypical of other Shelf routes.

Really fun route though...didn't feel THAT polished...lots of chalk yes, but the holds are big enough and positive enough that it didn't pose an issue.

By llamaface
From: Northglenn, CO
Dec 1, 2008

Does anyone have any good beta for the "reachy move"? I did the move (after about 15 attempts) with a heel hook out right and I barely got my finger tips on the bottom of the flat edge, and bumped up. It was extremely strenuous. Just the one move itself felt a lot harder than V4! I can see the rest of the route being 5.11, but come on, what am I missing :)(And PLEASE don't tell me to use that crap intermediate....)

By Rico
From: Aurora, CO
Jun 2, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I'm 5'6" and I thought the reachy move was extremely hard. Felt like a 12a move to me. My partner who is over 6' had no trouble getting it. He said the start was harder.

By Colin Kenneth
From: Berkeley, CA
Aug 9, 2009

I stick clipped the first, but didn't think to pre-hang the 2nd. I am guessing it was bolted on rappel otherwise whoever bolted it must have 4 foot long arms. I had to hold the dogbone and pummel the hangar with my draw until it clipped while at nearly a full lock-off. I'm 5'11" ish with a +1.5 and it getting the draw in was a long reach. the rest is powerful and uber-pumpy but really fun.

By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 9, 2009

I do a lockoff and a right (polished) heel hook. Another way to do it is to toe in with you right foot and reach up. Both ways are hard, but one might fit your style better than the other. The intermediate is a sandbag. It's not really a hold, but more of a hold that shorter people are praying to use to get to the good crimp.