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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Annette Bunge
Page Views: 804
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 13, 2001
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This is the lefthand of the two big roof routes at the far right end of the Primo Wall. It shares the start with "Hangman" to the second bolt.

Where "Hangman" traverses right, continue straight up to the roof crack above. The crack contains a finger-eating lock (you'll know which finger to tape after you let this puppy chew on you), followed by a big blind reach out right for a sloping jug and a reach back left for the lip and the anchor hooks.

If you ever wanted to know what a 5.12b fingerlock feels like, this is it. Just be thankful you don't have to fish in a crummy piece of gear to protect it like they did back in the olden days.


Five bolts to a pair of 1/2" open hooks.

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By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Apr 7, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

I got on this thing today after looking at it for a few years and found it to be tougher than it looks. It needed a bit of cleaning and chalking up, and the fingerlocks were in crumbly rock and not solid, but it felt hard for the grade. Maybe the fingerlock has widened over the years. Overall, kind of interesting climbing on the upper half.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
May 19, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

I thought this was a fun route, although short-lived. Hangman is definitely better, but after coming to Primo for 5 years, I'm glad I finally did this one. I agree with Kevin, it's tougher than it looks, but I never found any finger-eating finger locks up there. Overall the rock seemed solid and the jams decent, albiet tough.