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> Papoose
> Main Area, Frontside
Survival Enhancement
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Main Area, Frontside
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Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Duet for Two Hands T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Forgive My Trespasses T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hairpin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hanging Gardens T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Laid Back T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Limbo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mercurial Crossing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mercury Vapour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mushroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Obsession T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pamplemousse T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Papoose One T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pin Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Survival Enhancement T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Nick Jones, Tim Holwill 1992 |
| Page Views: | 1,185 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Tim Bonnell on Aug 8, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Survival Enhancement is yet another excellent route at the Papoose, offering a well-protected variety of crack and slab climbing.
P1 (11c): Climb a crack to a bolt at about 10' and make a tricky mantel move. Link discontinuous cracks for another 30' until some thin slab takes you out right past a couple of bolts. Trend slightly left to the anchor. (20m)
P2 (11b): Climb the hand crack for about 40' until you can clip a bolt located in a patch of very smooth white rock. Move up to a horizontal break on good holds and make a long reach to a so-so finger lock that is used to pull the mini-roof. Once over the roof, move right onto the face in an airy position and climb past two bolts to join the top of P2 of Centrefold. A great pitch (30m)
P3 (10a): Climb the 3rd pitch of Centrefold.
Descent: either walk off to the north, or 4 30m raps will get you down
P1 (11c): Climb a crack to a bolt at about 10' and make a tricky mantel move. Link discontinuous cracks for another 30' until some thin slab takes you out right past a couple of bolts. Trend slightly left to the anchor. (20m)
P2 (11b): Climb the hand crack for about 40' until you can clip a bolt located in a patch of very smooth white rock. Move up to a horizontal break on good holds and make a long reach to a so-so finger lock that is used to pull the mini-roof. Once over the roof, move right onto the face in an airy position and climb past two bolts to join the top of P2 of Centrefold. A great pitch (30m)
P3 (10a): Climb the 3rd pitch of Centrefold.
Descent: either walk off to the north, or 4 30m raps will get you down
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