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 ADVANCED
Third Advisor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Everybody Has An Opinion T 
Free Advice T 
Good Advice T 
Good Advice You Just Didn't Take T 
Sage Advice T 
Some Advice Is Hard to Follow T 
Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie T 
Surprisingly Good Advice T 
Unsolicited Advice T 

Surprisingly Good Advice 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: T. Bubb & Micah I, 6/26/11
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces North
Page Views: 94
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 30, 2011

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Tony heads up through the FA of 'Surprisingly Good...
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Surprisingly good, actually. This route looks questionable from the ground but yields both good holds and good gear.

Start just a few meters left of 'Unsolicited Advice' on a right-facing and left-leaning corner that presents a ramp-like dihedral to get up and onto the rock. Climb this for a body-length and reach into some good flakes and cracks that go up and right on low angle rock. There are a few potential loose flakes on this, but nothing very large. The gear is possible here, but the moderate grade will make it somewhat unnecessary anyway. Climb up and right on the flakes and cracks into a inset groove in the face which turns out to have a good crack in it, presenting good holds and bomber gear. Climb that section upward then slightly left to a ledge, then up and right onto the ledge at a crack and then onto the summit. Belay up and right towards the belay as for the routes "Unsolicited Advice" and "Supposed...."

To descend, walk/scramble off to the NW corner of the rock and down that edge as for the other routes nearby.


Location 

One more route up on the upper North Face of the 3rd Advisor, about 60 feet down and left from the summit arete.

Start on a left-leaning, right-facing dihedral/ramp and then up into a right-leaning series of flakes and cracks to reach up and into a groove with a good crack that is followed to the top of the rock.


Protection 

A standard light rack from fingers to hands. Fist-sized gear might help to build a convenient belay.



Photos of Surprisingly Good Advice Slideshow Add Photo
Tony cleaning on the F.A. lead of 'Surprisingly Good Advice.' Photo by Micah on 6/26/11.
Tony cleaning on the F.A. lead of 'Surprisingly Go...
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