|The Weeping Wall
This was the first climb on the Weeping Wall and so named because the first ascent party was so "surprised" it went. A good introduction to the wall although most parties elect to do the direct finish in lieu of the somewhat loose third pitch.
P1) Start in the middle of the wall and climb a short right-facing corner system (thin pro), then continue up and left on unprotected but very easy face (5.0) to a 3 bolt anchor. P2) Up and right along a ramp/flake system to reach a bolt (5.8) and then into an easy right-facing corner atop which is a 3 bolt belay. P3) Up a crack which turns into a flared chimney higher. Belay from gear at the top and descend via Bye Gully.
bolts, gear to 3"
Pitch 2 of Surprise...
Jean gettin' done with second pitch of Surprise.
|By Shawn Mitchell|
Jul 18, 2009
I remembered from boyhood this climb was runout, but I didn't remember how runout. After the 20 foot p.1 crack, you go all the (easy) way to the belay. But the shockers was crux p.2. After the short traverse to the one bolt--and not so modern a bolt--you do the crux, then go the rest of the way, with a bit of 5.6 at the top, to the belay.
Easy stuff, but you better be comfortable on friction WAY out from gear.
Oct 26, 2010
Like nearly everything else on the Weeping Wall this route is all about the correct foot sequence. The runout section makes one reconsider those sequences with a little more forethought and rehearsal.Great warm-up for 10K Gold.Taken together these two runouts make for a great day of face climbing.
From: Carlsbad CA
Apr 23, 2012
This is a fun climb. P1 5.0 runout has a bolt smack dab in the middle, for anyone who wants to clip it.. leave it unclipped for the full experience ;). On P3 I opted to skip the flared chimney and use the right thin flake. Some parts are hollow, loose, and BIG, however it eats gear and finishes just well.
|By Jim Dover|
From: Idyllwild, Ca
Jul 12, 2012
On pitches 2 and 3 I found pin scars that accept a #2 Offset Mastercam. Higher up on pitch 3--if you stay out of the gulley and do the right crack--some smaller gear works well--0.4s, 0.5s and 0.75s mostly. There are few places for larger stuff but the climbing is really positive so running it out isn't that scary.
Oh, and saw a big ass black rattler in the bushes at the base today. Yikes!!!