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Jeremy - onsight lead
Follow the main crack up the nose of the buttress while also using the face to its left. Find good protection until the crack terminates and you find the surprise ending. Sew this part up to protect the crux blank face block that leads to the top. Iíve gone left and right on the crux face and found both pretty hard for 5.7 (thus why I added the +, when I normally just input the guidebook ratings.)
A standard rack up to 3" should be fine. You can see the whole crack from the ground, so take a look at it and decide what you'll need.
A set of nuts is all the pro you need for a TR anchor if you are thrifty. There are many good cracks to work with.