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First Fortress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dusty Problem T,TR 
Finger Games TR 
Fortress Chimney T,TR 
Surprise Ending T,TR 
Unnamed Scramble TR 

Surprise Ending 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 240
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on May 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Crux section with good horizontal crack near feet ...


Follow the main crack up the nose and the face to its left. Easy climbing/good pro until the crack ends and you find the surprise ending. Head into the crux with gear just below foot level in a nice horizontal crack. Watch out for the rocks behind you if you fall.


I placed Black Diamond Camalots #1, #2, #0.4, and #0.5 to adequately protect this short route (the smaller cams were horizontals protecting the crux.)

There are many cracks at the top that will take pro for your anchor.

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