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First Fortress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dusty Problem T,TR 
Finger Games TR 
Fortress Chimney T,TR 
Surprise Ending T,TR 

Surprise Ending 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 193
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on May 30, 2011

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Jeremy at the crux section. Solid horizontal gear...

Description 

Follow the main crack up the nose of the buttress while also using the face to its left. Find good protection on easy moves until the crack terminates and you find the surprise ending. Put gear in here to protect the crux face block that leads to the top. Good pro is located about at your feet for the crux move, but have your belayer be watchful of rocks behind you if you fall.

Protection 

I placed Black Diamond Camalots #1, #2, #0.4, and #0.5 to adequately protect this short route (the smaller cams were horizontals protecting the crux.)

There are many cracks at the top that will take pro.


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