Crux is the face friction climbing between old quarter inch bolts. The climb starts out on a nice hands to fingers crack before petering out onto face climbing. The first bolt you come across (just slightly to the left and 8 Ft above were the crack peters out) is a nice modern 3/8 bolt. After that, up and left some more on thin friction climbing, the bolts are all old scary 1/4 inch bolts that can probably hold body weight. After the last quarter inch, you can slip in a 3/4 inch cam in a small crack and make your way to the tree for belay, or traverse over to the Age of Industry anchor just right of the climb
Climb the first crack left of the 5.6 chimney start of Royal Arches route. (Just left of Age of Industry)
1 1/2 inch to 1/2 inch cams for the crack, quick draws for bolts. One good 3/8 bolt protects the first moves once the crack ends, the next three are old quarter inchers that should hold body weight. :) Sling the tree above or use the three bolt anchor of Age of Industry.
|Comments on Surplus Cheaper Hands
|By Kaleem Khwaja|
From: Emeryville, California
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13
The Reid guide calls this .10c R, but I don't think it deserves the R now that all 4 1/4" bolts have been replaced (thank you!).
I also think it's a tad softer than Poker Face (10b) and Blackballed (10b), though more runout and dirtier.
The first bolt placement has me scratching my head as it's one move out of reach from a great stance and forces a ~10a move to get to it. If I were bolting this ground up I can't imagine not placing it one foot lower. But hey, makes for a little more spice I guess.