Surplus Cheaper Hands  5.10a/b PG13

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  John Tuttle, Norman Boles and George Watson Season:  Year Submitted By:  Daniel S on May 16, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Crux is the face friction climbing between old quarter inch bolts. The climb starts out on a nice hands to fingers crack before petering out onto face climbing. The first bolt you come across (just slightly to the left and 8 Ft above were the crack peters out) is a nice modern 3/8 bolt. After that, up and left some more on thin friction climbing, the bolts are all old scary 1/4 inch bolts that can probably hold body weight. After the last quarter inch, you can slip in a 3/4 inch cam in a small crack and make your way to the tree for belay, or traverse over to the Age of Industry anchor just right of the climb

Location 

Climb the first crack left of the 5.6 chimney start of Royal Arches route. (Just left of Age of Industry)

Protection 

1 1/2 inch to 1/2 inch cams for the crack, quick draws for bolts. One good 3/8 bolt protects the first moves once the crack ends, the next three are old quarter inchers that should hold body weight. :) Sling the tree above or use the three bolt anchor of Age of Industry.