Surf's Not Up

This route begins on a jug near the groin at the far end of the first section of the Playa Acapulquito boulders. It begins with a 15-foot traverse to the left, your hands working across a long series of good holds on a seam of hardened, stained rock relatively low on the wall. As the entire base of this climb is recessed, you'll have to hunt around creatively for footholds—and throw a few heel hooks when working past a deep cave section. Turn upwards once you spot the distinct V above your head. Once you get up on the wall, be careful not to yank too hard on any jugs, as the rock becomes a little fragile near the top. Go for the slopers instead.

You can't climb this at high tide. Walking from Playa Acapulquito, you'll see a set of man-made stairs chopped into the bluffs. Step around the first outcropping of rock (which offers some decent grips for beginner climbers and folks who want to warm up a bit before they go big) and you'll see the first big section of the bluffs, which I call Crab Rock. (There was a crab hiding on the rock the first day I stopped by.) Look for the beginning of the route tucked into the groin at the far right of the bluff.

Crash pad.