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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Shadow Sickness T 
Castles Made of Sand S 
Chains of Love T,S 
East Face/Fiddle Head T 
Fertile Crescent. T 
Irish Spring T,S 
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 
Men Only T 
Surfing Samarsa T 
Unknown Dihedral T 
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Surfing Samarsa 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: R. Rossiter, solo, 1989
Season: Gets AM shade
Page Views: 290
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 27, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Tony Bubb leads high on Surfing Samarsa (5.8-) Pho...

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  • Description 

    Great climbing on great rock- but it needs a good brushing to remove lichen. If cleaned, it would be an easier route than the others, but on par for overall quality.

    Head over to the left end of the West-facing top cap of the Fiddlehead. Set up a belay there and climb.

    Go up off the top of a boulder leaning on the wall, and up 20' to the ledge. Head down and right to pull onto the second half of the climb, and head up and left of a 8" round hole in the wall (coming from below and right of it). Go up under a flake/small roof to turn if tothe left after placing 2.5-3" gear and climb into the into a left-facing corner, heading up and left onto the face (more gear) and then right near the top.

    Head right on the ridge 20' or so to reach the belay/rap anchors. A 60m rope will get you back to a particular ledge as for the start of the other 3 climbs if you stay to climber's left on rap.


    This climb is the furthest line left on the wall with Lucky Charms, Irish Spring, and Leprachuan Promenade.


    The pro is spotty in places- not so much that it can not be safely protected, but it may require some creativity. Cams in horizontals and pockets make up at least 1/2 of the opportunities.

    Photos of Surfing Samarsa Slideshow Add Photo
    Tony Bubb leads just off the ledge of 'Surfing Sam...
    Tony Bubb leads just off the ledge of 'Surfing Sam...

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