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By Unassigned User
Aug 15, 2012

Olaf, you keep reminding me why I need to get back in the water.

Looking at getting into kite surfing but really I should just paddle out.


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By Cor
Aug 15, 2012
black nasty

olaf... thanks for all the work involved in keeping this nice
(this may be the friendliest thread) alive on the proj. :D


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 16, 2012
rockerwaves

I don't think this is going to end well! <br />Photo captured from the internet
I don't think this is going to end well!
Photo captured from the internet


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 16, 2012
rockerwaves

Rory Russel smacking it! <br />Photo from The Lost And Found Colection
Rory Russel smacking it!
Photo from The Lost And Found Colection


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By Didj
From ojai, ca
Aug 16, 2012
Didj atop 1st pitch of Free to Choose

Hi Olaf, I recently returned to climbing regularly and my climbing partner clued me in to Mountain Project for which I am extremely grateful. I have been surfing for the last 13 years or so mostly in Ventura, California. Lucky for me, I have family on the North Shore of Oahu and am able to get out there once a year during the winter.

I have only just begun to read this thread and so far it looks awesome. Thanks for your devotion to keeping it alive. I am going to bookmark it and check it regularly.


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 16, 2012
rockerwaves

Welcome Didj, I am stoked to be going back climbing myself! Please feel free to jump in any time.
I just scoped out some new rock yesterday on the south side of Maui and we are scheduled to go back over there this weekend.
I am planning on a trip to the front range of Colorado the first two weeks in September to climb and work on my house.


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 17, 2012
rockerwaves

J.P.@Lanes NS Maui <br />Photo: Olaf Mitchell
J.P.@Lanes NS Maui
Photo: Olaf Mitchell


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By Didj
From ojai, ca
Aug 18, 2012
Didj atop 1st pitch of Free to Choose

Thanks Olaf. By far the most exhilarating surfing I have done has been on the North Shore of Oahu. My sister and her family have had a house at Backyards for the last 15 years or so. This has given me the opportunity to become slightly familiar with this surf spot. On occasion I house sit for her. I have seen all kinds of conditions and have surfed there in the winter and summer in big and in small. One of my most memorable experiences happened in relatively small conditions.
2008 January North Shore, Oahu
There had just been a storm. I stood on the picnic table and watched the small swell crash against the reef. The water was brown due to the several inches of last night's rain washing soil into the ocean via the various river mouths. Despite the fact that the influence of the storm continued to wreak havoc, I decided to paddle out in my sister's 8-6 V board. There wasn't much wind and I hadn't surfed for a few days so I just went for it. I grabbed the board out of her garage and soon was making my way towards Freddy's. I prefer to paddle around the reef rather than walk up the channels. I spent 30 minutes observing the chaotic conditions up close. 'Oh well', I thought to my self. Time to paddle in. I decided to get a little more exercise by paddling down to Sunset. Every where I looked it was brown. That was some rainstorm. As I got closer to Sunset I caught a glimpse of someone surfing there. To my utter amazement, the water was clear blue and the swell was producing perfect 3 foot (Hawaiian) waves that lasted for at least 200 yards and there was one guy surfing them.
Needless to say, I surfed these perfect head high waves for the next couple hours until my arms were about to fall off. The waves kept coming and coming without let up. Every once in a while I'd exchange a couple words with the other surfer - he was an Ausie - but mostly we gave all of our attention to this sacred experience. Just as I began to paddle in, 2 more guys appeared. It was their shift. My Job was done. They looked enthralled, salivating at the empty line up and magical conditions.


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 18, 2012
rockerwaves

Thanks for sharing your story Didj.
Not many people can say they have surfed head high Sunset
with only one other person in the lineup.
You are very fortunate to have a great place to surf out of like Back Yards on the North shore of Oahu.
Please share more when you get the urge!
We had a little N/E bump yesterday it was mixed with a N/E wind swell. We enjoyed some out of season wave sailing at my home break(Kuau) here on the north shore of Maui.


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 19, 2012
rockerwaves

Casey Rehrer <br />Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Casey Rehrer
Photo: Olaf Mitchell


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 19, 2012
rockerwaves

Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Photo: Olaf Mitchell


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 20, 2012
rockerwaves

Peahi <br />Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Peahi
Photo: Olaf Mitchell


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By Didj
From ojai, ca
Aug 21, 2012
Didj atop 1st pitch of Free to Choose

Olaf, yes, I feel like I hit the surf lottery surfing Sunset with one other guy. We just kept doing laps for the couple hours I was there. As i'd paddle back for another wave he'd cruise by on one and vice versa. In addition to my sister at 'Yards, I also have a brother and his family in Turtle Bay and my parents have a place there as well. In the beginning, I'd just surf Pool Bar when staying there. Over the years my brother, Brian, has clued me in to other surf spots within the confines of Turtle Bay. Last year during my visit in January, I paddled out to Pool Bar. When I got out there I counted another 30 or so surfers competing for the 3 different launching pads. The memory of my brother's beta whispered in my ear. "When its crowded at Pool Bar, I paddle to the middle." Thus I began the 100 yard or so paddle to the middle. As I approached the zone I could see that there was one other surfer. Just as I arrived and sat on my board, the other surfer paddled away head down no words exchanged. He was done. Initially, I just sat there watching the waves, imagining the best take offs. Its a little different surfing alone in the middle of the bay, 150 yards from shore. Soon, I found the pattern and began to catch sweet, couple-feet overhead waves. They actually seemed bigger and longer than anything happening at Pool Bar. After 20 minutes or so of catching waves alone, I watched 5 boogie boarders kicking their way onto the scene. They were high schoolers, locals, and the smiles came easy and the light danced out of their eyes. They whooped it up, cheering each other on. They brought a level of enthusiasm and comradery that I don't see very often among surfers. They'd cheer me on as well. Turned out 2 of them know my brother - he's been teaching for years as Kahuku High School. These were really fun waves and they don't happen all the time. I managed to stay out there for two and a half hours. Finally paddling in with the last of my energy as the the light began to fade. Soon, I was walking across the golf course sending pleasant thoughts of gratitude to my brother Bri who helped make that memorable surf sesh possible.


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 21, 2012
rockerwaves

Didj, Your like a fresh breeze to this thread! Thanks for sharing your stories.
I spent some time on the North Shore of Oahu back in the early 80's.
I lived up near the top of Pupakaia Road past the Heiau with two nurses that worked at Kahuku Hospital Clinic.

I wasn't a very accomplished surfer at that time of my life so I surfed in town on the south side most of the time which was way cool.

I had a Brazilian girlfriend named Dazie that was attending classes in town so I would cruse over with her several times a week. Dazie would go to class and drop me off at da beach and I would surf Waikiki or Ala Moana.

My house mates and friends on the north shore had me spooked about the localism that was a it all time high during that period so didn't really surf the north shore much although I did get some sessions in at the little break by the firehouse at three tables beach and some in Haleiwa.
The memories of that experience stay with me even today and they set the foundation for the life that I am enjoying today.

Dazie
Dazie

house on Pupakia Rd,
house on Pupakia Rd,


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By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2012
Half Dome

I might be heading to Oahu in October. Does anyone have any recommendations about how best to try out surfing?

I've snowboarded and skateboarded my whole life and feel like surfing is the "final frontier" so to speak. I would love to get a few good days in and while I have no illusions about standing right up and carving...it would be nice to at least give it a shot on some small waves. I did get out once on the Outer Banks in super choppy conditions pre hurricane (4-6' waves maybe). I had no problem paddling out (decent swimmer), but it was too big and choppy for me to think about dropping in - as I know I would have been pounded into the sand immediately and it was nothing close to beginner conditions. It was really cool sitting out there with the waves crashing and the offshore breeze whipping spray all over.

Ideally I could meet an fellow MP'er who lives there and perhaps exchange some climbing for surfing. I live in Boulder and have a full sport/trad rack and lots of experience to offer if you are visiting Boulder and want to climb on a front range trip one day. Though I'm not opposed to paying for a lesson, given I don't want to go out there alone.

Would love to make it to Maui and meet you Olaf, but I'm not sure this trip will be the one. We do have friends who own a condo there - so there is a chance. Thanks for inspiring me!


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 21, 2012
rockerwaves

Hay Paul,
Look on line for surf schools on Oahu. There are many I am sure. Look into a privet lesson or three with a good instructor. It maybe a bit pricy but will be way worth it.
Your learning curve will be accelerated exponentially.
He will have you paddling in and going down the line very fast.
Forget about all the other sports that you do and are competent at (they just don't really cross over in the beginning) and just absorb the guys knowledge.
In my opinion an older local guy might be your best bet because he is just going to presenting the basics 101 and will have 1000's of past clients under his belt if you know what I mean.
He will teach you valuable ocean knowledge,he will get you paddling efficiently,how to line up at the peak.
He will teach you about timing, wave priority with other surfers,and most of all he will run interference so you can actually get on a decent wave. Since he will be a local and he probably teaches at the same spot a lot he will know most every one in the line up.
South shore Oahu has many brakes and he will know which one is right for your best surfing experience.
I look forward to hearing about your experience.
BTW: I am going to be in Colorado 9/5-9/18 and would like to hook up with other MP'ers maybe for a beer or a moderate route or two.
Aloha, Olaf


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By Woodchuck ATC
Aug 21, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Uh ohh, this thread is reaching the magic 40 page, 1,000 post limit. what will happen to all the surf news posted after than?


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By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2012
Half Dome

@ Olaf: Thanks for the tips! PM if you want to get out climbing while you are in town.

i can't wait to get in the water.


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 22, 2012
rockerwaves

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Uh ohh, this thread is reaching the magic 40 page, 1,000 post limit. what will happen to all the surf news posted after than?

It's not over yet, but, That's a good question Woodchuck.

It's been a good run, very entertaining, and a lot of fun sharing my passion for surfing and wave sailing with you guys.

This thread was never supposed to be about me I only wanted to be a participant.

Judging from the number of page views there is an interest in this subject and that's what has kept me posting all this time.

If you guys want we can find a way to keep the stoke here on Mountain Project.


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By Didj
From ojai, ca
Aug 22, 2012
Didj atop 1st pitch of Free to Choose

Thanks for the kind words Olaf. Sorry to hear this thread may be coming to the end. Looks like I joined the party in its twilight. I'd certainly appreciate an extension on the lease. I have really been enjoying catching up on all the posts here but still have many pages to go!

Olaf, I enjoy your writing style and all the photos you have been sharing. I enjoy all the other posters writing and photos as well. What a pleasant surprise to find this thread on Mountain Project. I only recently joined MP and it has served me quite well. I just led Free to Choose at the Fortress and only learned about this climbing area because of MP.


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By Christian
From Casa do Cacete
Aug 27, 2012
Ooops...

Tahiti live now!


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 27, 2012
rockerwaves

Christian wrote:
Tahiti live now!

billabongpro.com/tahiti12/live-gb

I caught some of it before I left for work this morning.
I hope it's still going on.


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 28, 2012
rockerwaves

Congratulations to Mick Fanning for a hard fought an well deserved win.
The conditions were perfect and the talent and competition was brilliant.


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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Aug 31, 2012
rockerwaves

We've got some sweet south swell getting in here for a couple of days.
I surfed two sessions at 1000 Peaks yesterday with some of my friends. we all got a bunch of waves and had a great time.

Photo Olaf Mitchell
Photo Olaf Mitchell


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By Peter Stokes
From Them Thar Hills
Sep 1, 2012
Wall Street, Moab, UT

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Uh ohh, this thread is reaching the magic 40 page, 1,000 post limit. what will happen to all the surf news posted after than?


I suggest starting a new thread, called something like "Surfing and Wave Sailing continued" and running through another 40 pages...


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