Nice Olaf, glad to hear you're surfing. The winds were offshore and while the waves were only knee to waist, I must have gotten more than thirty rides. But I'm looking for a new feel. I think I'm going to build an Alaia sometime next week.
Hay Jasonn,The surf was even better yesterday. I got so many shoulder to head high waves that I was paddled out after three hours. There were just the right amount of surfers out and everyone got a bunch of waves without sharing. I gave so many waves away and still had my pick of the set waves. I then bought some beer and went home and watched the Volcom Fiji Pro with my friend Mark. It was a good day! I think I will head back over today if the report is still favorable. Something tells me that I should rest up for the major swell that is scheduled to hit our south and west shores on Monday or Tuesday.
Olaf, thats amazing news! Good to hear. It's looking pretty sloppy around here for the next few days, but I'm heading up to Mass for a dam release so at least i'll get some boating in. One of these days I'll make it out to the Island to surf some of those set waves!
I surfed another three hour session yesterday in similar conditions although a bit smaller than the two previous days. i went home and watched the Volcom Pro contest from Fiji. I am about paddled out but the live video feed from "Break Wall" shows more of the same for today. What to do? We have a significant south swell heading our way and it should arrive a.m. Tuesday and I have the day off. I am thinking that I should rest and try to let my paddle muscles and sunburn recover. But I will probably surf again today but maybe not as long. Today is the final day of the contest in Fiji. It starts out with Kelly Slater in the first heat so check it out. I posted the link up thread.
Jason the contest is over and Kelly won. You can go to this link and click on "heats on demand" and get the highlights. This was one of the best sporting events I have ever watched! www.volcomfijipro.com/live/
After that last delightful south swell episode that I mentioned (up thread) we were blessed with a couple of small N/W bumps that were reinforced with some rather vigorous easterly wind swell rapping on to the north shore. In fact the last day of that swell I surfed three hours on the west side and then drove back home to Kuau and wave sailed with a hand full of my friends and neighbors till dark. Since I live and work at the beach I was fortunate that I got to work full days and still have time to ride my bike home and get my gear and walk to the launch and get out for some delightful evening wave smacking in.
We have had a vigorous south swell hitting our south and west beaches for the past five days. I had to work the first two of those days but I did score two brilliant sessions of this swell. The swell was just about max for the spot that usually surf over on the west side. There were some closeouts in the bigger sets that made for long, steep, clean drops to a close out but even that was a lot of fun. Once again the line up was mostly my friends and neighbors from the north shore and there was very little or no wind to mess things up. The first day was so perfect that I surfed for a full four and a half hours with out a break. The next day was only three hours of paddling.
The waves on the west side have dropped off and it looks like wave sailing in my back yard here on the north shore is the name of the game for the next foreseeable while. I had good wave sailing sessions for the past two days and hope that the wind swell holds. It really is a lot of fun. I pity the di-hard surfers here on Maui that don't have a wind sport to fall back on.
Check out this clip of what many describe as the single best day of monster barrel riding ever captured. This was the free day at Cloudbreak during the recent Volcom surfing contest that I mentioned up thread. dailysurfvideos.com/tv/
Yesterday and the day before I drove my truck the 4.5 miles down the coast to Kanaha Beach Park and left it there with a cooler with refreshments in it. I jumped on my cruiser bike and bucked the stiff 19-25 mph head wind back to my place in Kuau. I then grabbed my 4.4m sail and 78ltr wave board and walked to my local launch and rigged. I sailed solo down the coast taking my time taking in the dynamic view while dodging sea turtles and spooking flying fish while riding clean open ocean wind swell all the way down to Kanaha. It was cool to be out on the ocean with just my rig and board shorts and nothing else. It was fun having a beer and great conversation with my pals that were there before I loaded my kit and headed back home.
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
I'm STOKED by Glen James forecast for the next few days! "There should be a new southwest swell that will be followed by a larger south-southwest swell, both lasting for several days. This second SSW swell may prompt a high surf advisory into Thursday." I am probably not working through this period. --- Invalid image id: 107685831 ---
The west side delivered the goods yesterday! It was closing out when I arrived which sent a lot of the pack back to the beach. As the tide filled in a bit conditions got better an I got some monumental rides a couple of the right handers are in competition for the single best wave rides of the season. The report is that it is bigger today so I am heading back over for some more action.
I scored another great day of over head surf although the wind was messing it up and it really looked like junk from the road but the rides we were getting were excellent! The crappy appearance was all it took to keep the crowds away. It seem like the second day of a swell never goes as well as the first in that I typically paddle my self out the first day and so I am paddling with way less power. Also my timing was off yesterday and I blew a number of steep take offs. All In all It was a good day of surfing with good people and plenty of waves. The forecast for today is still excellent although it's predicted to drop some into the week end. I'll be taking off in a bit to check it out.