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By trundlebum
From Las Vegas NV
Jan 18, 2012
Somewhere in Tuolumne, sometime early 80's
Olaf That is funny bruddah...

I watched the video of Anderson.
I had not read the part of your comment/caption that was in brackets.
I went back and laughed when I did read it.
My immediate thought was "Looks a lot like Jerry back in his Pipe hey day when he was riding Lightning Bolt singles."

Maybe off topic but:
Years ago I was climbing in Eldorado. I met a fellah that was soloing around and asked if he could join my Gal and I on our rope as the route was crowed and he feared rock/gear fall.
I said no worries. Turned out he was also an avid surfer that would surfari most winters in Baja.
He suggested so I did, go to the Denver Nat. History museum. They had a new(er) IMAX theater on the Museum campus. The film at the time was titled "Behold Hawai'i".
Fabulous movie, but to the point. At one point in the movie this guy is surfing. But they supplant footage of Jerry surfing Pipe. Jerry, owning Pipeline on an IMAX screen...
At one point Lopez emerges from a barrel and smacks this insane off the lip.
In a Pavlovian response (being a goofy foot myself) I smashed the seat in front of me with my back/left foot so hard I rocked the whole aisle. This guy three seats over turns and gives me stink eye. To which I smiled and said "Sorry, but I guess it is true... Only a surfer (truly) knows the feeling!"

If yah ever get the chance, and you find the film somewhere, then watch it - IMAX "Behold Hawai'i". Fabulous story line, great cinematography etc etc.
If you do find it...


I want a copy :;
(before SOPA gets all us pirates any way)

Aloha 'ia 'Oe 'E Olaf.
Hana hou, I Kau ha'awi aku I keia mau leka uila.

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By danulu
Jan 18, 2012
Speaking of south baja.
Secret point
Secret point

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Jan 19, 2012
rockerwaves
danulu I would defiantly keep that spot secret! Thanks for sharing the photo. There are so many great places in Baja most of them are a bitch to get to but worth it once you are there.
trundlebum, More stories please! A turning point in my surf carrier was seeing a VCR tape with Lopez surfing Pipe to the tune of Green Eyed Lady by Sugarloaf. After that I knew the direction I wanted to go!
Road to one of my secret spots in Baja <br />Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Road to one of my secret spots in Baja
Photo: Olaf Mitchell

youtube.com/watch?feature=play...!
Great stuff
Great stuff

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By danulu
Jan 19, 2012
This secret spot is in the general area as the middle photo, if that is the spot I'm thinking of.

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By Christian
From Casa do Cacete
Jan 19, 2012
Ooops...
>

Thought I'd see some soul-surfer and he's also busting backside 360 airs in Cabo..lol

Last part has to be Desert Point, of course when I was there in '89 it was like 2 ft..:-)

Reminds me of Rob Machado more than Lopez, Rob kicked my *ss in a heat once also in '89, couldn't believe that guy, not a huge guy but he'd paddle circles around me and was always there when a little peak came in, also kicking my ass in that heat, Pat O'Connell, Donovan Frankenreiter, and Hans Hagen..

All done whining now lol

btw same music as the video for Sasha DiGulian sending some 5.14d, "Emancipator", "First Snow"

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Jan 20, 2012
rockerwaves
Howdi Christian, Great in put and you are absolutely spot on with your analogy as far as this guys and Rob Machado's style goes.
You gotta admit Jerry was pretty damn smooth in his day! I just saw him in the announcers booth at the Volcom Pipe Masters Comp.a while back. He 's had a great career on many levels and one of my all time sports heroes. I guess he's still ripping on the Oregon coast these days.
This video is good but streams poorly. Still worth a peek.

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By Christian
From Casa do Cacete
Jan 20, 2012
Ooops...
I don't think I'd ever be able to claw a wave away from the hierarchy at Pipe, but nice to mindsurf them anyway lol

That Ulu video brings back memories, in '91 had 10 ft Outside Corner ( a little bigger than the video) all by myself for an hour before the crowd up on the cliff finally figured out a new swell had arrived lol..By then I was so in synch w it I got every wave I wanted even after 15 more guys paddled out..

Had a brand spanking new 6'10 Xanadu pintail, a couple of waves and I had the thing dialed... you could fade your bottom turn forever, go up into the lip, then like 3 giant roundhouse cutties, then since it was standing up a little more than that video, you could sometimes get another off-the-lip further in..

Had a huge grin on my face riding my motorcycle back to Kuta that evening..good times :-)

PS Yeah Gerry was pretty smooth, have that video "Five Summer Stories", he's ripping..a little before my time, didn't start surfing until '83..remember bodysurfing in the 70s and guys w single fins crusing by..lol I hated surfers 'cause they caught all the good waves :-)

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By danulu
Jan 20, 2012
I remember my first session at double oh ulu vividly, even though it was in 98. I faded while dropping in at outside peak to set up the barrel, and then got mowed and pounded. Got held down for 3-4 seconds, and then stood up in waist high water. Had a hole almost clear through my 6'10 Willis Phazer. You really got to angle in there when it is big. Also remember trying to make it into the cave on said day at high tide, then missing it and having to go back outside again and get another one at racetracks. It's funny how the current on the inside runs down the point, and then on the outside it runs the other way. Only had to share it with about 150 guys also. What memories.

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By Christian
From Casa do Cacete
Jan 21, 2012
Ooops...
Oh yeah that cave, quite the Jekyll and Hyde transformation between low tide and high tide lol

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Jan 21, 2012
rockerwaves
danulu that sounds like some wild hydraulics!

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Jan 22, 2012
rockerwaves


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By danulu
Jan 23, 2012
A not so secret point in Baja.
A not so secret point in Baja.

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Jan 23, 2012
rockerwaves
danulu, That image sure brings back many memories for me. The nomad surf bum in Baja lifestyle is the most free that I have ever felt. Great adventures shared with great people! It's really cool when conditions are good and you really dig in and set up camp and build a palapa and a good fire pit. Surf in the morning wave sail in the afternoon when the wind comes up and party and eat in the evening day after day. There is no past or future. Time stands still and all there is now!

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By danulu
Jan 24, 2012
Nice video of Pequena-I never scored that place any good.

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Jan 24, 2012
rockerwaves
youtube.com/watch?feature=play...!

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By trundlebum
From Las Vegas NV
Jan 24, 2012
Somewhere in Tuolumne, sometime early 80's
Kirra:
Cool footage, nice find TFPU.

Hey when you gunna get out to Vegas and do some climbing with me?

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By DaveF
From Durango, CO
Jan 25, 2012
I'm thinking of going to Sri Lanka to surf this July. Anyone been there? Any beta?

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Jan 25, 2012
rockerwaves
kirra wrote:
wow like being in there w/o getting wet ~ ~ ~ Olaf thanks for sharin' Hau‘oli Makahiki Hou!

Hi Kirra, Great to here from you on this thread and pleased you appreciate it. Plan another Maui trip some time. K?

I surfed Noriega's today on this new and still rising swell. I got one substantial wave that took me all the way into the channel area Only problem was the set behind the wave that I got was just mean and closed the entire channel. I took a pretty sever pounding and thought that my leash might snap several times as I paddled back outside. It was a fun session with only this one French guy on a Sup that was getting worked every bit as hard as me. After that episode I was pretty much pau surf for the day. There was a lot of water moving out there today. Frankly, I was about my comfort level most of the sesh.

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Jan 27, 2012
rockerwaves
I was blessed with another glassy double overhead plus session yesterday morning. It's amazing to me but I am not complaining that Hookipa was packed and where I was there was only a hand full of us out.
Due to the size I was being very cautious and barley slipped over several of the bigger sets. I was in heaven with sea turtles playing around me while whales breached off in the distance with great clean waves and not a breath of wind on them.
That is about to change tomorrow when the trade winds return and a new N/W swell arrives. This swell is predicted to hit "High Surf Warning" levels early next week. So it's Game On around here

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Jan 28, 2012
rockerwaves
Rumor is that conditions are favorable so they are going to start the Pipeline contest today.

volcompipepro.com/
Pipelines hungry reef
Pipelines hungry reef

All indicators say that today is lining up to be a great wave sailing day here on the north shore of Maui and I had better go get my work done so I can get back here to the beach!

Pat Caldwell Wave Guru for the National Weather Service said " HIGH SURF ADVISORY FOR NORTH AND WEST FACING SHORES

Surf along north facing shores will be 5 to 8 feet tonight and will build to 15 to 20 feet Saturday morning.

Surf along west facing shores will be 3 to 5 feet tonight and will build to 8 to 12 feet Saturday morning.

Surf along east facing shores will be 3 to 5 feet through Saturday.

Surf along south facing shores will be 2 to 4 feet through Saturday.

Outlook through Thursday Feb 2: a large incoming northwest swell Saturday morning will lower below advisory levels around midday Sunday. Another large, longer period northwest swell will arrive Monday and boost surf to near warning levels Monday afternoon through Tuesday morning.

Surf heights are forecast heights of the face or front of waves. The surf forecast is based on the significant wave height, the average height of the one third largest waves, in the zone of maximum refraction. Some waves may be more than twice as high as the significant wave height. Expect to encounter rip currents in or near any surf zone.

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Jan 29, 2012
rockerwaves
I checked the surf at 9:00 am and it showed all indications of being a classic wave sailing day here on the north shore. I went to work and got out of there in plenty of time to get a session in but when I got back home to the beach it was so big and closing out I just sat and watched two friends of mine try and punch out through the wall of foam. It took Tom and Victor 45 min to make it out side and neither of them actually got a wave. This swell really came up fast and gnarly. I am going to try the same thing today hopefully it will have dropped some by the time I get back from work this afternoon.

Whitewash & Wipeouts – Big Jump Up Swell Forces Day 1 Call Off At Volcom Pipe Pro [3:03]

Day 1 of the Volcom Pipe Pro got under way yesterday [28th] but the expected 8ft swell decided to mutate into something much larger – by the end of the day 15-20ft sets were washing through. The contest was called off as the surf was deemed to large and after Stephen Koehne speared his leg with his board it was clear that things were getting out of hand pretty quickly. The rounds that ran saw some heavy wipeouts, skip to 2:19 to see Morgan Faulkner’s fall onto the flats, not the thing you want to be doing when Pipes’ getting to that sort of size. Contest directors are hoping to re start the contest this morning but it depends whether the swell has dropped off enough over night.

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Jan 30, 2012
rockerwaves
The northwest swell activity will continue pounding the north shore and it will be coming up into the very larger realms Monday into Tuesday – into the high surf warning levels…gradually lowering through the rest of the work week. Largest surf Monday along those best aligned beaches will reach 7'-12'(Hawaiian)14'-25+'faces.
Kai Lenny on a bomb last Peahi swell...  He's stoked and ready for tomorrow's swell! Charge um Kai!
Kai Lenny on a bomb last Peahi swell... He's stoked and ready for tomorrow's swell! Charge um Kai!

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By Christian
From Casa do Cacete
Jan 31, 2012
Ooops...
volcompipepro.com/live/

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Feb 1, 2012
rockerwaves
Christan, Thanks for the link and I will try to catch some of the action on Wednesday. The report is that we have another substantial
(warning level) swell marching this way.
I went out to Peahi today but the swell had dropped off alot. It was still fun and relaxing to hang out at the camera station that I built when we were filming "The World Cup Of Tow In Surfing" That footage was later released as the Jaws chapter of the "Billabong Odyssey". The waves were perfect for a hand full of kiters and windsurfers to express themselves.

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Feb 1, 2012
rockerwaves
While at Jaws yesterday a really nice Dutch fellow named Arnold scaled down the cliff and sat down to watch with us. He pulled this really nice Nicon with telephoto lens and started shooting. I gave him my card and asked if he would pass along a few images that I could share on my on line magazine(mauioceansports.blogspot.com/). I hope he dose. In the mean time hear's a few images by Eric Aeder of the same day.
erikaeder.com/peahi-paddle-1-3...

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