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By trundlebum
From Las Vegas NV
Dec 9, 2011
Somewhere in Tuolumne, sometime early 80's
Aloha Bruddah Olaf:
I just came to the thread the long way (instead of direct link)...
You/(we) have one of the longest threads on the whole forum now.

Mostly you Bra.

Keep'm coiming, keep this magic alive !

I love and appreciate that link.
Still in the loft, but pauhana...

I watched all of day one and two.
Schweeet phootage :0

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 10, 2011
rockerwaves
15 year old Bernd Roediger at Hookipa,Maui on 12/0...
15 year old Bernd Roediger at Hookipa,Maui
on 12/08/11
Photo:John"Chico"Bruder


Dave F and trundlebum it's great to here from you guys and know that you are digging the stoke that I have for this thread and the the ocean!

Check out my friend Giampaolo's blog post covering Thursday's epic conditions that I mentioned up thread. My ribs are very tender from getting washed through the rocks at the end of my session that day so I didn't wave sail yesterday. The waves still had some respectable size and it looked real good. Several of my friends were out tearing it up at Kuau.
mauisurfreport.blogspot.com/20...

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 11, 2011
rockerwaves
#!

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By DaveF
From Durango, CO
Dec 12, 2011
super sweet at Pipe this weekend. Kelly and John John's battle was the best of the weekend I thought. Now it's time to figure out the summer swell and where to go in the Pacific. My girl and I are thinking Tavarua, or something similar in August. Any ideas/suggestions?

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By Heyun
From Charleston S.C.
Dec 12, 2011
Still keeping the dream alive.... good for you Olaf.

Been out of touch lately with the www, computer got moved to a not so user friendly place in the house, kids keeping me way busier than the first one did...boy vs girl I rekon. Little dude is wide open.

Not much to talk about surf wise going on here (lol) but we had a decent fall. Still holding on to that blank... maybe it will be a spring something to look forward to.

Got a pass to go out a few Thursaday's ago at dawn, gotta be home by 8:15 but it's always worth it. One of my favorite things is paddling out in the pre-dawn light, being 1st one in the water.

A guy took this sequence I was able to get ahold of. Super long left at the Folly Beach pier.

Keep up the good vibe!

Bottom Turn
Bottom Turn


Run up to the Nose
Run up to the Nose


Milking that little closeout section at the end
Milking that little closeout section at the end

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 13, 2011
rockerwaves
Great photos Hayne! Thanks for dropping in Brah!

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 14, 2011
rockerwaves
Photo from Buzzy Kerbox
Photo from Buzzy Kerbox

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By DaveF
From Durango, CO
Dec 14, 2011
Olaf, where have you surfed in the Pacific (other than Hawaii)? My girl and I are planning a trip and are open to suggestions. Trying to get away from the crowds.

Cheers bruv

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 15, 2011
rockerwaves
Dave,My surfing experiences are limited to Maui,Oahu,California,Florida,North Carolina,Oregon,Baja and also some on the mainland Mexico. I have been here on Maui for the past 12 years and would love to guide you to an inexpensive,unclouded,relatively easy to get to place with great waves but I am also looking my self. Please pass all info on my way as your quest develops.

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By DaveF
From Durango, CO
Dec 15, 2011
Olaf, great to hear from you. I'm searching the south pacific for sweet spots. Most of what I find are the places we've all seen in mags and vids. Epic tapwater vis barrels over sweet reefs...full of crowds. I have found a few places that demand further investigation. I'll send ya the beta as soon as I get some positive results. One thing's for sure...gotta be warm, tropical, and sandy :)

Cheers bruv

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 16, 2011
rockerwaves
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Photo: Olaf Mitchell

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 17, 2011
rockerwaves
The surf outlook for my neck of the woods reads like this:
The north shores will remain large this weekend…from the current northwest swell train of waves, gradually lowering through Monday. The west sides will be larger than normal Saturday and Sunday as well…. They will be gradually lowering into Monday. Surf along the east shores will remain active Saturday, rising some into Sunday along with the strengthening trade winds. South shores will be very small to flat through Sunday.
Hookipa: 6-7
Kanaha: 4-6
Note: Wave face readings are approximately twice the surf forecast numbers indicated above.

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 19, 2011
rockerwaves
Tatiana Howard  tatianahoward.com/blog/
Tatiana Howard

tatianahoward.com/blog/

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 20, 2011
rockerwaves
youtube.com/watch?feature=play...!

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By Heyun
From Charleston S.C.
Dec 21, 2011
Talking about stoke..... after 15 years of my handedmedown ripped and curled 4/3 wetsuit I got a new (slightly used) oneill psychofreak, last years model for $150. Sheesh what a difference, Feels like I'm buck nekkid except I'm warm!

Stoked.

On another note, Olaf, I see where on the above forcast is a "note" stating the wave face is double that size.... yea, there always has been the ole "6 foot hawaii is 12 foot california" standard. While viewing this years triple crown events, I noticed the wave heights were way over called, ie they were saying sunset was 12 to 15 when it would have usually been called 6 IMO. I thought maybe they were just hyping it for the masses.

Well, in talking to my friend who has a coffee shop on the NS and lives at sunset, he informed me that they (ASP) and local surf forcasters were having to adapt to mainland standards due to a current lawsuit being filed on behalf of someone (haole*) who read 6 to 8 and thought thhey were on it until they got out and realized it was nearly 20 foot faces and got in trouble...

Crazy stuff if it's true: The Pussification of America at work.

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By Christian
From Casa do Cacete
Dec 21, 2011
Coup
Other than propping up somebody's fragile ego, I can't see any advantages to calling 8-12 foot Sunset "6 foot".

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By Heyun
From Charleston S.C.
Dec 21, 2011
Well, I'm no Oceanographer* but when a swell breaks on a reef or beach, the wave face is usually double the size of the swell itself.

Difference of measuring the wave from the back or the front, been a topic and conundrum for the 35 some odd years I've surfed.

And if I had to say, I'd have to say the fragile egos are the ones calling it 12 to 15 feet (hyping manhood?) when it's only a 6 foot swell running, but to each his own, I respect everyone's opinion.

Really though, Hawaiians are calling it 6 foot and you can't see the danger, even standing right there on the beach, and paddle out anyway cause you rule 6 foot at home?

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By Christian
From Casa do Cacete
Dec 22, 2011
Coup
I watched on the livestream the day they called 12-15 feet, and the largest wave I saw ridden was about 12 foot (about 25 foot face). So they were exaggerating, but it was definitely NOT "6 foot".

From the forecasting service's point of view though, what's more important? A) Some locals have a transition period of a few weeks, where they figure out it's not being called in "Hawaiian" numbers anymore, and maybe they get to the beach a few times and it's smaller than they thought it would be.

or B) Some inexperienced guy (i'd just say "kook" normally lol, but many years later I'm a little more humble lol)paddles out and drowns. I mean, yeah ideally he "should" have been smarter, but shit happens. That's somebody's son or daughter that just died.

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 22, 2011
rockerwaves
The trend is slowly moving to the face value rather than the back of the wave. Glen James(Maui Weather Today) still uses the old school way while Uncle Pat Caldwell( Surf forecast guru for the National Weather Service in Oahu)has adopted the front of the wave for the very reason mentioned earlier.

My ribs are slowly healing and I hope to be back in the game by the time the next substantial north swell arrives. Having two rib injuries back to back has been a real drag, although I have been fortunate in that I have been able to surf/wave sail the best days we have had this season so far.

BTW: Happy Solstice!

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By Heyun
From Charleston S.C.
Dec 22, 2011
I can appreciate the sentiment over someone dying in the waves. Considering I have kids of my own, I hope they will be smart enough to look out at a lineup like Pipe, and realize that it's double to triple overhead, no matter what the "surf report" say's.

It's sad that it's taking a lawsuit against the state of Hawaii to get them to change the "surf report" in a Hawaii, a wave estimation that has been in place for decades.

BTW, coffee you get from McDonalds might be hot, so be careful out there.

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 23, 2011
rockerwaves
We have quite a few reliable sources for swell and wave reports.
Pat Caldwell,Glen James,Guy Hoggi,O-Maui,Magic Sea Weed and the list goes on.
The wave models provided by the Navy and various other sources can give accurate data for any where in the world if you just take a second to check them out and compare them to local the local forecasters predictions.
There is nothing better though than local knowledge and experience.
The ocean is omnipotent!
industryartcollective.com/?p=2...

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 24, 2011
rockerwaves
Mele Kalikimaka
Mele Kalikimaka

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By J. Thompson
From denver, co
Dec 24, 2011
Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.
Happy Holidays folks!

I'm sitting in Denver with over a foot of snow on the ground...but my surf board is on the roof of my car and in a couple of days I'll be driving west.

Can't wait to get wet!

cheers,

josh

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 25, 2011
rockerwaves
this is STOKE!
this is STOKE!

youtube.com/watch?feature=play...!

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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 29, 2011
rockerwaves
North shores – Thursday will find the surf coming up from the northwest again for several days..gradually lowering into the first part of the holiday weekend. A second northwest swell will arrive Sunday, and then a third early in 2012. Game On!

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