North shores - A new north-northwest swell will arrive Wednesday, increasing into Thursday, lasting for several days…gradually dropping into the weekend. As the trade winds get stronger now, there will be more chop, and there will be some wind swell wrap locally as well. A new NW swell will arrive right after the weekend, giving another boost to these shores then
Sounds like a good forcast... we finally got some waves here, still not head high though, but the winds been on it. Hoping for the weekend.... Daylight savings can't come soon enough, late evening sessions will be possible again.
Looky what I just got about an hour ago.... freebie 7'10" Clark Foam blank, hoping to get a 7'7" out of it...the nose is kind of messed up might only get a 7'5" and a half three quaters or something.... anyway, SCORE!
I have a buddy that started shaping a while back and has a little shop out in the "country".. stay tuned
Hayne,I'm looking forward to a blow by blow account of your new project so please post along as develops.
It's game on around here at least for a while.
I went out yesterday and the swell hadn't got in here yet. It was still good to get out on the ocean for a while. The view from my house leads me to believe that this swell isn't real big but to be honest with you I don't need it to be real big today I need it to be real good today!
Here is my vision for the blank. I've been messing with this cardboard for about a year... 7'7" roundy pintail, 15 1/2+ nose, 14 tail, 21 widepoint... the tail on the cardboard, the one on the right side is pulled in more, I'm trying to decide whether to go pinnyer or more round on the tail...considering we haven't had overhead waves in 5 months, maybe I should go more round and use the left side template???
Dark blue wrapped rails, blue bolt....
Hope Gerry doesn't sue me for copyright infringment.
Here's a photo that I took of Harriak at one of the parties during "The 2010 Pistol River Wave Bash". He's standing next to the official Wave Bash Poster that he created.
official wave bash poster
Hayne wrote: "Hope Gerry doesn't sue me for copyright infringement." Looks like you're off to a good start on your latest project thanks for the up date,Hayne. BTW: I like the rounder tail profile but that just me. I have always thought that the Gerry Lopez lightning bolt was the coolest logo ever. It really makes a strong statement. IMHO: Copying is the greatest form of flattery!
Well the news around here is "tsunami" My heart goes out to our brothers and sisters in Japan. The media coverage of that disaster is the most graphic that I have ever seen. Here on Maui we experienced a 6ft. tsunami that caused some minor flooding and it rearranged our beaches a bit. But that's about it.
On Thursday, the day of the earth quake I sailed mast high waves at Kuau. I had a very hard time penetrating the impact zone and it took me a long time to get through. Once I got outside I sailed around and a bit to let my adrenaline level out some. Then I went about the business of wave sailing and what a session it was. I rode countless well over mast high waves. And that’s really all that I can say about that,other than, I was trying to be careful not to get caught inside. I did get caught inside a few times but really paid very little penalty. At the end of my sesh I caught a nice wave in just the right spot to get a nice smack on the top of the wave and then sprint for the narrow gap in the rocks that leads to the launch. All was going well until I hit the current that was flowing out of the channel like a Colorado mountain stream at spring runoff. When I fell in I was in the epicenter of the flow. It’s a very disheartening feeling to be in the grip of a force that you have no chance of fighting. I know the drill and started to work my way across the flow and get into the inward serge. I wasn’t having much luck and I was being pulled back out to sea. That’s when I saw Dean start swimming out to help. I relaxed a bit knowing that the cavalry was on its way! When dean arrived I told him that I was glad to see him and that I was having a bit of trouble with the current and it seemed stronger than usual. His reply was “You’re not the only one that’s had a hard time today.” We both addressed the task of braking free of the hold that the current had on my sailboard rig. I remember at one point saying, “Dean we aren’t making any progress at all!” He said, “Yes we are!” But I knew that we really weren’t and feared that we might have to abandon the rig and swim in. Finally we started making some very slow progress. That’s when Tom swam out to help with the effort. It took three of us to negotiate the last 30 meters. Once on the beach it was like the whole Kuau Yacht Club was assembled and there was a case Corona. We hadn’t had a gathering like that in some time so we all sat around and talked story and watched another rescue from the current and had a couple of cold beverages.
When I got home I found out that the entire beach was being evacuated. Our neighbor sent out a message for anyone needing a place to come up here. They had quite a few people accept their hospitality. So there was a fairly late party at the neighbor’s house.
Yesterday"Friday,3/11/11" will be referred to as “Tsunami Friday" from here on. All of the "Maui County Beaches" were closed and most people were staying out of the ocean. The waves were still substantial although probably not as big as the day before.
After examining the situation throughly I decided to go out and get some waves. I had a much easier time getting through the impact zone than I did on Thursday. Also the wind was much steadier than Thursday as well. I rode a bunch of great waves until nearly dark. Once again I worked my way to weather and positioned myself in a good place to catch my last wave of the day and head for the channel. It wasn’t long until I was presented with a medium/large wave and I did the usual drop in and smack it once and then head for the channel. The water was so rough at the mouth of the channel that I fell in. I looked at the distance that I had to swim to get in and after my experience the day before I decided to water start and go back out through the impact zone. I sailed up wind a ways before I turned around and made another try at the channel. This time I chose another approach. I decided to go through the even narrower gap to the Hookipa side of the big rock at the entry to the channel. Like I have expressed in previous posts I don’t have a very good success rate with this approach but there are advantages to this approach and that is even though there are many rocks to avoid ether by slipping through and over. There's always the chance of breaking your gear and possibly injuring yourself. The current in this place is pushing you in rather than pushing you out to sea. I made it around the rock OK but I was knocked off balance and fell on top of a rock that was only about a foot under water. I landed right on my butt and my rig was swept away from me by the next wave. I swam hard after it and just as I caught it the next wave hit me. Did I say this route that I chose had a lot of rocks? Well, I am swimming over barely submerged rocks and getting pummeled while all the time, I was being pushed closer toward the beach. The peanut gallery that was assembled on the beach was having a fine time watching all this happen. In reality the rough landing was far less stressful than fighting the current. When I got to the beach I got a few raised eyebrows but no one said a word about my sketchy landing. Once again there was even more drama in the channel and a rescue had to be preformed for every one to watch.
What a wild couple of days on the Ocean!
Here's a few Images that I took in the last couple days.
Hank, dude I can totally see u in Paia, btw what are you doing in Mexico did the front range loose another hero on patrol?
Olaf thanks for posting pics of Kuau Mart party -seemed like the place to be!
I heard Kahalui mall was flooded, what happened to MCC school? (between the coast and the mall) Some boats were destroyed on the south harbor, the ocean is all powerful we are all reminded at times like this
not sure it was a good idea to build a nuclear p.plant so close to the shoreline of Japan (?) What if that wave hit the reactor instead of the village it wiped out just north?!? Glad you are o.k. in that crazy story riding tsunami swell. Those sirens going off finally when there is a reason to --wow
kera we had very minimal damage from the tsunami mauioceansports.blogspot.com/2011/03/kite-beach-crew-maui-ts>>> The big news around here is WAVES! I windsurfed in double mast high waves yesterday afternoon. I was very selective about the waves I chose to express myself on and tried to stay out of the way of the bigger set waves, Still It was sketchy and at one point I was thinking how foolish it was to be out on the ocean in waves that big when a pod of dauphins appeared and cruised along with me and I realized That I was in exactly the right place. Today is even bigger and I doubt if I am going out on the ocean today. Yesterday was about at my comfort limit. Here's a photo that I took just a few minutes ago from my back yard. As you can see all channels are closed
"A custom Angulo that Mark Angulo is riding and Killing It on!" God willing, one of my fav' sailboards is still under my house in Puna. It is a sweet 8'4" assy, Angulo, round pin (not a cut away/can opener). I had a lot of fun on that board. It was such a primo all around sailboard for the N.shore Maui conditions.
I have an older friend who grew up on O'ahu. He tells me stories of his 'little kid days' and having his dad teach him how to make and ride what he calls 'Paipo' boards. I sometimes thought he was saying 'Piper' boards but with a pidgeon accent... till I just found this link:
"the paipo* catalogue " surfresearch.com.au/ Perhaps 'Paipo' is an Aussie term? I know my friends dad went to the Olympics in OZ the same year (same swim and surf rescue team/year as The Duke) so perhaps his dad got the term years ago from his experiences in OZ?
"Well the Dave Mell never made it to the dump." Good shaper, great guy that Dave Mel. Is he still shaping on Maui ? Dave used to have a shop space a ways up Baldwin ave above Paia town at an old mill building. At that time Windsurf Hawaii was located at the same place. It probably does not still exist?
Bob Tinkler: "It makes no difference. You're just actually putting energy into the tail. Storing energy, and being able to release that energy to give you drive through your turn."
trunglebum,Yeah,Dave Mell is still here on Maui and his shop Sailboards Maui is right there on Baldwin. He has been spending a lot of time in Japan shaping custom surfboards and sailboards. He gets much better money for his work in Japan and it's good for his business to be local often. The same goes for Bill Foot he is also very popular in Japan. What has become my signature long board" Aggro Tank" is a Dave Mell. I've broken/buckled it numerous times and he has repaired it each time. Perhaps I'll get him to duplicate it and paint it just the same color.
The American Windsurfing Tour is gaining momentum To help spread the stoke I put together a brief photo essay of some of the images that I took at the 2010 Pistol River Wave Bash americanwindsurfingtour.com/
I's been so stinking windy here on the north shore of Maui that it really hasn't been much fun for me. I have been completely over powered every time that I get on the ocean. The conditions have been very hard to judge and I am always rigging moer sail than I can handle at 140lbs. It's been very hard to turn down the line and express my self on the wave face when I can't turn the power off. At 58years old with all the injuries that I have had over the years(I've busted and tweaked about every part of my body at least once)I feel that my big jumping days are over and all I want to do is wave ride. Yesterday was an exception in that I rigged my 4.1m sail and it was spot on! I had a great session at Kuau and rode wave after wave perfectly powered, Yippee!
A BUNCH OF GRUMPY OLD MEN SITTING ON THE LOG AT THE KUAU LAUNCH Photo: Sam Bittner
Well it has been a heck of a week out on the ocean. We had some dynamically diverse sessions ranging from super nuclear wind with small waves to strong wind and good waves to giant waves with steady wind to steady wind and head high waves to head high and very light wind. Wednesday was absolutely giant! We had mast and a half to near double mast high sets that were coming in sets of five to eight waves in a set. There were defiant lulls between the sets so timing was critical in order to get out through the impact zone. Well mine timing was off so I had to take quite a few of the massive walls of white water on the head and wait while protecting my gear before I was allowed access to the open ocean on the outside. When I finally did get out through the impact zone and got my wits about me after the pounding I had. I got down to the business of getting some waves. I made damn sure to take a good look over my shoulder before committing to a wave because If I rode one that closed out I stood the chance of getting caught inside again and possibly breaking my gear or having it ripped away from me and loosing it to the strong currents and not being able to swim fast enough to catch it. I had a great session and rode quite a few of those magnificent wonders of nature. I was able to sail really far into the channel and didn’t have to swim very far at all to get back to the beach. The next day the conditions looked too gnarly at Kuau so I thought I would give Kanaha another try. Like I thought the waves were much smaller but everyone on the north shore was there and what a zoo it was. I’ve committed in past posts about this phenomenon. Professional level wave sailors mixing with intermediate local wave sailors mixing with entry level wave sailors then toss in a variety of absolute clueless Kook s, and now let’s not forget the kite surfers as well. You get all these people going for the same waves and in the same little break and you have a scene where no one is having fun and no one is able to express themselves at all other than how FU their session was. I knew what I was getting into when I went there so I just tried to put a big smile on my face and enjoy being a part of the show. I n reality I did get a few really nice waves. Yesterday was an entirely different. The waves had dropped to about head high or a little bigger in the sets but the wind shut down as I was trying to get out and it took forever to get a water start and get through the impact zone. Once I was out the wind was so gusty that I really didn’t want to be out there any longer so I set up to catch one wave and then head back to the channel. The wave I dropped in on was a respectable size and I made one bottom turn and hit the lip and dropped back in and pointed back left and hoped to use the energy of the white water to push me all the way into the narrow channel. Well that didn’t work at all the white water just mowed me over and shook the hell out of me. When I absorbed the next two white waters I was left about thirty meters from the rocks at the mouth of the channel with absolutely no wind what so ever. I just hate being in that position but I knew the drill. I had to just start swimming with my gear and try to negotiate the currents as best that I could. I made what I considered to be good progress and made it in to the mouth of the channel. I actually got pretty far and started feeling pretty confident that I was going to make it in without much trouble. That’s when this ripping surge of current hit me and in less time than I can describe I was swept back out to the mouth of the channel and caught in what I now describe as the “Eddy from Hell“. I have described this place in previous posts and the description is still the same. Once EFH gets you No amount of swimming will break its hold. Drowning wasn’t the issue since I did have my board and sail for flotation. It’s sheer exhaustion that is the danger. I fought the current until I was really tired and I am so thankful that Samantha Bittner was on the scene. She swam out and helped me break through the current. I was pretty whipped when I got to the beach. I am not in really bad shape but I intend to step up my training by swimming the Kuau Channel as often as possible. This is an article That I posted in our on line magazine aboy Wednesdays wave sailing at Hookipa. I hope you enjoy it!