By Heyun
From Charleston S.C.
Dec 15, 2010
| How old were you when you first caught a wave?
My daughter and Me on her first wave when she was just shy over 2 years old... and later... encourage stoke!
| first wave at 2.2 years old
Submitted By: Heyun on Dec 15, 2010
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| shaka kine
Submitted By: Heyun on Dec 15, 2010
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| not surfing but sometimes it is the best form of communication
Submitted By: Heyun on Dec 15, 2010
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| got boards?
Submitted By: Heyun on Dec 15, 2010
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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 15, 2010
| EdAsh wrote: Aloha Olaf, I was looking at an old P Hubbel guide book and I noticed "Olaf's Roof".
Hi Ed, It's good to here from you. I really don't know the roof that Peter is referring to.
Was it in "The Brown Book Of Lies"? Where in the Platte is "Olaf's Roof"
I put up a lot of routes down in the Platte back in the day. Peter also named a lot of things off the top of his head back in the day. Cheers Olaf |
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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 15, 2010
| mobley wrote: I dont know about the massive balls thing, especially coming from a climbing background but this is an impressive vid of three of the fastest and most simple sailing rigs in the world. Its funny that it takes millions of dollars to make a boat that can go as fast as a kiteboarder you have to admit. I'm more of a sail until I cant drink anymore and race/try to race someone along the way kind of sailor myself. I'm looking for someone to strap in to my mast while holding a trainer kite(at first) on my Laser next summer in the LI sound if anyone is interested. We could set some local records, that 49er at Yale really pisses me off sometimes...
Hi mobley, You have a point when you compare sailing to climbing at least trad climbing.
That is an interesting idea about using a kite in addition to your sail to super charge your Laser. Keep us posted! |
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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 15, 2010
| Hayne von Kolnitz wrote: Here is a good reason to paddle out.... Strictly from a gentleman's perspective, of course!
I agree that there is NO better scenery than I have found in the line up!
Thanks for posting the images! |
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By Jasonn
From Plattsburgh, NY
Dec 15, 2010
| Yea, to bad they go away in the winter. |
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By Heyun
From Charleston S.C.
Dec 17, 2010
| Thank you Olaf for the images.
We might get some waves tomorrow. I'll carry the camera and get a more recent photo. Amazing how the crowd thins out when the water temp drops below 48!
| random summer day
Submitted By: Heyun on Dec 17, 2010
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| random day at the Washout, aka: Hollywood.
Submitted By: Heyun on Dec 17, 2010
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| Folly Pier, aka: Pumpkin Head's
Submitted By: Heyun on Dec 17, 2010
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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 17, 2010
| Ed Ash wrote: "Rufus Miller? Did you know him? I never met him but I heard some stories."
Ed, Rufus is a true legend and really good friend of mine.
He is one of the most talented and strongest climbers I have ever
known!
As far as that route is concerned if I put it up or It's named after me I hope that it's a good roof! |
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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 18, 2010
| Kai Lenny is a young man that I have known since he was just a child.
He won the World SUP Championship title a few days back. He is also an all around waterman. Here are two images that I took of Kai this year.
| Kai Lenny dropping in at "Jaws" on his windsurfer.Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Submitted By: Olaf Mitchell on Dec 18, 2010
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| Kai at the Nash Maui "Kite" Race Series
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Submitted By: Olaf Mitchell on Dec 18, 2010
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By kirra
Dec 19, 2010
| Olaf Mitchell wrote: At first I thought,Well ? This is sorta close to home. Then I thought,No, That's my front yard! Man possibly bitten by shark Posted: Dec 12, 2010 5:26 PM HST Updated: Dec 12, 2010 8:32 PM HST PAIA (HawaiiNewsNow) - On Maui a man is counting his blessings after reportedly being bitten by what sounds like a shark or barracuda.
ever find out who bite 'em eh..?
one would think the bite-marks between those 2 species are substantially different |
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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 19, 2010
| kirra wrote: ever find out who bite 'em eh..? one would think the bite-marks between those 2 species are quite substantial
Kirra,I haven't heard a thing more about that incident.
Although, I heard another landlord story yesterday from my friend Brent. He says that a friend of his was towing in at Noriega and he had a 6' tiger shark swim right at him last week with his dorsal fin out of the water and mouth open. (Now that is a personal account from a friend of a friend that has never given me any reason to doubt a single thing he said.) Noriega is the wave that I surf and wave sail on probably 75% of the time.
We surfed that wave yesterday with just my friend Dale and two other guys. The sesh started out with
Some delightful waves in the over head range and grew bigger as the day went on. By the end of our sesh we had dropped in on some real bombs! We were also getting clobbered if we were caught on the inside. The larger sets were closing out the right channel and there was nowhere to go. Nori’s on a rising swell can be really serious!
All four of us called it a day when the sets were coming in consistently around triple over head range.
That is way past my comfort zone. Dale’s new board was snapped in two . He had to swim in with half a surfboard.
Today the waves are bigger than yesterday. I think that I am going to look further down the coast. Probably Kanaha will be somewhat shadowed and more manageable. It will probably be more crowded being a weekend. Game ON!
| Dale's surfboard after yesterdays surf session at Noreaga's
Submitted By: Olaf Mitchell on Dec 19, 2010
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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 20, 2010
| Just as I thought Nori's was just not where I needed to be yesterday. I got there just as Dale and two other guys were about to paddle out. I decided to watch their first few waves and I wasn't stoked by what I saw.
There were two tow-in crews working thee same breaks with thier jet ski's. As a rule I go in when the guys start to tow-in. It's usually to big to paddle-in comfortably.Also the peak seemed to be shifting around and it looked 'way' hard to line up. "AND"! There were still those BIG clean up sets that were rolling through from time to time!
I opted to down the beach to Kanaha. This proved to be a good call.
I surfed with friends and got a lot of great waves.
After all those sesh's at Nori's last week Kanaha seemed a bit tamer than usual. The sets were still coming in way over head and fairly heavy. There was absolutely no wind on the wave and it was real clean.
This swell is still very active so I'm going to get my work done and go for a "Solstice Surf".
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By kirra
Dec 20, 2010
| I am being reminded of the song, Toots & the Maytals Country Roads right about now |
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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 20, 2010
| Kanaha opened a large can of woopass on me this afternoon! |
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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 22, 2010
| I’m sitting here trying to remember my last surf sesh.
It’s real hard to focus on any single wave other than this one.
At the beginning of the sesh I dropped in on a couple of bombs that were nothing but a big clean drop to a big close out.
Then Kanaha started really showing her teeth and she was in a foul mood.
Not many guys were going for the set waves and I found out why.
I was sitting pretty far out when something rose up on the horizon.
I immediately started paddling out as fast as I could.
I paddled for a long way and I didn't know if I had gone far enough.
By the time the set got to me I still wasn't clear of this makker set.
I paddled up vertical faces that I don't have any I idea of how big they were, but, they spooked me.
One after another I paddled over three of them and just barely cleared the lip before it threw.
I kept eyes on the horizon as I caught a couple smaller waves that were closeouts as well.
I was hoping for one good wave and then I was going to call it a day.
I was sitting off to the left of what I thought was the peak when this smaller looking glassy peak rolled right up to me.
It was a perfect right hander.
I hardly had to paddle.
I made two strokes and popped up into a low aggressive stance.
I dropped down the long smooth face.
I charged back up that smooth face for almost as far as I had dropped at the peak.
Just when I was initiating my top turn the wave decided to throw.
And boy did it!
I had a full head of steam when I collided with this exploding peak. I was thrown far in the air and my board was thrown even farther. When it had stretched my leash as far as it could the board rebounded. It powered back at me like one of those paddle balls on a rubber band.
I remember seeing the fins as they passed by my face.
Then it happened!
I landed right in the epicenter of the force that the wave was producing.
I was violently pummeled and held under for an uncomfortably long while.
When I came up I only had time for one deep breath before the next equally sized wave dumped on my head.
This went on for several more waves.
Each one of them delivered a severe beating.
All I could do is breath when I got the chance and try and protect my board as best I could.
When that set subsided I paddled back out and caught a couple more smaller waves before calling it a day.
I was asked by several guys how my sesh was and all I could tell them was that I caught some big waves and I paid for them.
Thought I would post some random images:
| Victors last ride of 2010
Submitted By: Olaf Mitchell on Dec 22, 2010
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| rainbows most of the time
Submitted By: Olaf Mitchell on Dec 22, 2010
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| I get these great sunsets most evenings.
Submitted By: Olaf Mitchell on Dec 22, 2010
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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 24, 2010
| I surfed with my old friend Mike Waltze for a while yesterday. Other wise I had Nori's all to my self. The sets were still pretty big and they were hard to paddle into. I did get some waves one right and two lefts stand out in my memory.
One of the lefts was as good as any wave that I have ever ridden.
I got drilled pretty good a couple of times as well!
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By Jasonn
From Plattsburgh, NY
Dec 24, 2010
| Great last few posts guys. Im headed to CA tomorrow. Ill have to tell you about my trip and share photos when I'm back. |
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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 25, 2010
| We have a new swell this Christmas Day! It's a present that I'm going to share it with all my friends here in Hawaii.
900 AM HST SAT DEC 25 2010
HIGH SURF ADVISORY FOR NORTH AND EAST FACING SHORES THROUGH
MONDAY
Surf along north facing shores rising to 12 to 16 feet today through Sunday morning, then lowering to 10 to 12 feet by Sunday evening.
| The legendary Mike Waltze at Jaws back in the 90's
Submitted By: Olaf Mitchell on Dec 25, 2010
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By Heyun
From Charleston S.C.
Dec 26, 2010
| Mele Kalikekanaka....
A North swell at Honomanu sounds dreamy right about now. Been a pretty flat December here. Supposed to snow flurry later... I might go log the knee high slappers just to say I did.
Merry Christmas and looking forward to the the New Year! |
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By PTZ
From Chicago/Colorado
Dec 27, 2010
| Olaf Mitchell wrote: I think PTZ that if you keep reading this thread you might get a clue.
I get it, its a sick thing to do, but the ocean is a dirty, violent, shark and reef infested place. The best perk is the chicks in bikinis admit it. It is a part sun worshiping culture that we all have in common.Having that sun beat down on you is intoxicating in any sport. I can't beef on anybody doing anything outside. No matter what the activity as long as you enjoy yourself and it is outside more power to you. Go surf do your thing. That means less people rock climbing. |
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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 27, 2010
| Hay, PTZ thanks for your input dude!
Christmas Eve was way gnarly! I cruised the coast from Hookipa to Kanaha and didn't like what I saw at any of the breaks. I did see a couple of wave rides that impressed me at Hookipa but it was a day for the best of the best.
I moved on to Kanaha and I noticed that there were a number people paddling out that were obviously under estimating what they were getting into.
I watched with binoculars as water patrol conducted several rescues.
The sets were so big that they were visible when they cleared the horizon.
When they hit the reef at Kanaha they were throwing in excess of triple over head and closing out.
I didn't see one single wave that I thought I could make.
I am no stranger to heavy ocean conditions.
I decided not to venture out into chaos.
I went home and had some beers and washed my truck.
From my back yard I could see the lines out on the ocean all the way to the horizon.
Yesterday was another thing all together. The size had dropped a little and the waves had cleaned up their act. It was still too big at Kuau. In fact three different teams were towing in at Nori's. When I got to Kanaha I found waves that were peeling off the peak delivering beautiful rights and lefts. I paddled out at noon and surfed until 5:00.
That's a lot of paddling!
| The scene from my back yard Christmas Eve day.
Notice the wave lines all the way out to the horizon.
Submitted By: Olaf Mitchell on Dec 27, 2010
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By Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Dec 28, 2010
| North shores - The large north swell will keep the surf breaking…although lowering during the day Tuesday. A new northwest swell, a long lasting swell train of waves, will keep and bump these shores up starting Tuesday, with peak days later Tuesday into Wednesday, then again Friday Saturday…finally, the largest of the three next Monday.= GAME ON !! |
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