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Castle Rock
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Surface Tension (aka Two) 
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Surface Tension (aka Two) 

Hueco: V10- Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Wade David
New Route: Yes
Season: yr around
Page Views: 1,848
Submitted By: Wade on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Photo beta for "Surface Tension (V10?)."

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

On the Citadel Boulder it is the far right arete with a small scoop at the start, it starts on two of three crimps and climbs up to a jug rail and topout. Don't fall in the summer. You may end up in the creek.

Location 

Sit down start on the arete.

Protection 

Pad or two.


Comments on Surface Tension (aka Two) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andrew Vojslavek
May 16, 2009

Start has broken as of two weeks ago.... I just saw the damage, sorry, all the parts of the start are gone, no more glue wahoo!
By misha zavalov
From: Boulder, Co.
Jun 2, 2009

I ran down to the boulder to try Surface Tension, the starting holds had been busted off and laying right under the route. Bummer! Maybe it will still go, but it's way difficult now.
By Luke Childers
Sep 3, 2009
rating: V10-11 8A

I never tried "Surface Tension" before the hold broke off, but the water was low enough for me to try the line, and it seemed like it may still be around V10 or so. Maybe V11? I'm not sure. I am so bad at grading lines. Some 8-9's and even harder I can get without a lot of fuss and others many take weeks or longer, crazy. It's just style, I guess?

I didn't send but linked all the movement except for the matched 1st crimp pushing out of the scoop to the kinda "U" shaped (R) hand crimp on the lip of the arete/scoop. I could do that single move but not the total link-up.

I think I could send next time out? I would still call it V10'ish unless I'm doing something wrong? Anyway, it's a cool line if the water is down. And the logs really help with the spot pads. I dig it!!
By Luke Childers
Sep 10, 2009
rating: V10-11 8A

Checked it again with no send but it does not seem like it's going to be V11 hard but what the hey.... I still need to send it. Water is low enough to do it for sure. I feel close to getting this one. Really just one move shy. Cool line for sure!!
By chris schulte
Nov 28, 2010

The grade's the same.
By chris schulte
Nov 28, 2010

Continue up the sloping arete left to the apex for the "surface tension extension".
Fun, big-ish move at the end.