Auburn State Recreation Area is now open seven days a week to technical climbing! The area still closes to all activity at dusk, so be sure to leave enough time to return to your car during daylight hours.
CRAGS -- the Sacramento area local Access Fund affiliate -- and the California State Parks worked together through a pilot program of limited access in the popular Auburn Quarry. Its success has led to Auburn being full opened to roped climbing.
Currently containing one route, this 80 foot cliff contains excellent climbing potential. Firstly, it's over 150 feet long, and only the first 10 feet have been developed. Secondly, the rock is mostly vertical, and should contain some excellent vertical routes that will run the height of the cliff.
This rock will have morning sun and afternoon shade.
Rappelling/lowering is the only option off the current route, though future routes will have a place to walk off.
From the entrance to the canyon, head right around the memorialwall to the large cliff that sits behind it. You're there!
The only existing route on the Surf Tower, this route is on the way way right side, on the tower that sits on the right side of the cliff.Climb using anything you can find for the first two bolts, and afterwards the climbing gets considerably simpler. From the top, you get an excellent view of the lower Auburn Cliffs and also the canyon beyond....[more]Browse More Classics in CA