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BETA PHOTO: Surf Naked first pitch, 5.6
The old Louck's guide shows Surf Naked as a 3 pitch climb. Monomaniac posted pitch 1 in May 2007 and marked it in this Photo. On June 2011, pitches 2 & 3 were also posted; see this other Photo. There are a variety of ways to fill out the rest of the day after climbing this route; see discussion after the route discription.
P1: Traverse left onto the large slab to a black water streak, then head straight up, passing a bolt. After a couple 5.7 moves followed by increasingly easy runout, the route leads into the large left-facing dihedral which offers excellent pro, and the occasional face hold. Mostly great slabbing leads up to a ledge on the dihedral, where the crack thins and the liebacking becomes more intense. One more ledge leads to a cool cave crawl-through or tunnel to a rap anchor. This pitch is about 150 feet.
P2: From the east end of the tunnel (i.e., up-canyon end), head up and left until you've passed over the dirt, vegetation, and hollow-sounding blocks of rock. Set a belay at roughly 60 feet while still easily within sight of the tunnel (Photo). 5.1?
P3: Excellent rock. Continue up and left following a pinched-down crack that opens to hand sized (5.7). Leave that weakness when you find a rightward crack wandering up on increasingly runout terrain as the difficulty eases some; this last section has vegetation running on your right. The pitch ends at a very ample belay ledge in a kind of slot; 100+ feet?
WHAT TO DO NEXT?
OPTION 1: At the ledge at the top of pitch 3, which is the end of Surf Naked per Loucks, we found a nest of webbing on a refrigerator-sized rock. Louck's guide shows a 165 foot rap followed by 3rd class downclimb to the tree at the top of Revenge of the Elderly's P1. From there, Loucks shows a second 100 foot rap to the ground.
OPTION 2: We downclimbed climber's right about 15 feet and then up and rightward on slabby runout terrain (5.5?) until we joined the top of Revenge of the Elderly. After a couple 5.7 moves remaining, we rapped Revenge. The joining with Revenge is just above that little tree on P4.
OPTION 3: Alam points out that another alternative after finishing Surf Naked is to climb Surfs Up, 5.8R: "From the belay at the end of P3 (nice nut is slot) attack the arete. There are 2 or 3 1/4 inch bolts on this arete, then move left to the face to climb up to a ledge. The belay was a set of slings around a root and a piton. May want to improve on this. The rappel from this point can get you to the R.of E. top belay (with effort). We always found it easier to belay part way down Revenge and climb that route." See Photo courtesy of Alam. Alam also points out "... we have also climbed an additional 2 pitches ... but never found anything worth writing home about, but if you are into Sandia adventure...."
Begins just right of and about 40 feet above the start of Revenge of the Elderly. See optional starts in this Photo.
Gear to 3".
At the start of Surf Naked, just above the bolt. ...
BETA PHOTO: Monomaniac originally posted about the first pi...
pix from above looking at the cave
BETA PHOTO: inside the cave,it has a rap stationtowards the ba...
|By ian watson|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 5, 2011
I followed bill on this yesterday, as the multipitch route i rate it 5.7 the moves for me felt very thin in some parts (trust your feet) and you can make them happen. I also thought the nice 20-30 foot lieback section of this route was awsome and wish it was longer.
Oct 23, 2011
Everone seems to miss to miss P4 which is the bolted arete! I had always assumed this was gave the route its name?
From the belay at the end of P3 (nice nut is slot) attacked the arete. There are 2 or 3 1/4 bolts on this arete, then move left to the face to climb up to a ledge. The belay was a set of slings around a root and a piton. May want to improve on this. The rappel from this point can get you to the R.of E. top belay (with effort). We always found it easier to belay par way down Revenge and climb that route.
I have included a update topo.
Note we have also climbed an additional 2 pitches above P4, but never found anything worth writing home about, but if you are into Sandia adventure....
| || |P4 Surf Naked
Submitted By: Alam on Oct 23, 2011
|By Bill Lawry|
From: New Mexico
Oct 26, 2011
Todd, The old Loucks' guide does not show a pitch 4 to Surf Naked. That guide also names what you show with the red line as Surfs up, 5.8r, 1 pitch. Maybe it should be a separate entry like with Christian Crack (also posted separately based on the Loucks' guide)?
I always assumed that Revenge of the Elderly was put up by an older generation and Surf Naked was then named by a younger generation as a challenge to the former. ;-) Maybe someone who really knows will post.
Oct 30, 2011
Bill is correct.
The red line is SURFS UP (5.8 R). Probably should be included as a seperate climb. I have always liked the arete, and just link Revenge and Surf Naked in various variation depending on the mood. Also note that when I first climbed this in 1990 I thought the bolts (quarter inch specials) should be replaced, and now 20 years later they still need to be done.
|By Ian Getzler|
Nov 11, 2011
Climbed Surf Naked today. Can't say it was the best time to climb this slab, but for a few "noobs" in town for the weekend it worked. We entered a bit high on the wall (intention of climbing RotE) but decided to see what would happen. It is trad after all...I ran out the first pitch and totally over climbed the cave. I didn't see it until i was out of rope setting an anchor for belay. My partner then did what he needed to (mostly following the left facing dihedral) to top it out at a huge rock with archaic slings around it. We then traversed over to the three bolt rap station of RotE. That part was definitely the best part of the climb.
The terrain was definitely overgrown, covered in lichen, and had some ice. The protection although run out in places was bomber.
We rapped down from the top of RotE with a two rope (60m) all the way down to the top of RotE pitch 1. From there one more rap to the bottom ledge and walked out. The bolts at the top of RotE were a bit wiggly, but safe enough. The slings (rope enclosed in webbing) and rap rings at RotE pitch one belay, definitely still in good condition.
Overall, it was a good day to climb in NM. Cold, yes, but the views, climb, and rap were awesome!..but maybe wait until summer for another climb?
|By mark leonard|
Jun 13, 2012
Howdy folks, this route and RoTE were both first climbed at about the same time, and probably each shares part of the route with each other. Mike Darrah who was also a nationally ranked x-c skier for Klaus Weber at UNM had a Surf Naked sticker on his helmet, sounded like a good name at the time. I went back later with Dave Benyak and finished up the arete. As this was done at a later time we gave it a seperate name, Surf's Up.