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Sacred Cow Wall
Routes Sorted
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Cowch Potato T 
Deal With It T 
Fatted Calf T 
Karin's Corner T 
Milk Box, The T 
Sacred Cow T 
Steve Carruthers Memorial T 
Styminger, The T 
Surf and Turf T,S 
Twin Cam T 
Unknown Route T 
Vegetarian Corner T 

Surf and Turf 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Equipped by: Luke Stefurak
New Route: Yes
Season: Closed Project
Page Views: 753
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Apr 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Plaque!

Description 

I bolted and cleaned this route but didn't have enough time to redpoint it on my last trip to the creek. I optimistically made a plaque which shows the name and grade.

I first saw this line a few years back and was psyched it still hadn't been climbed this year. Getting to do a quality FA at Indian Creek would mean a lot to me. For this reason I am entering the route as a closed project.

Since this is a mixed route I left a red tag on the first bolt to indicate that I would prefer people stay off it for the near term.

I don't think routes should be closed for more than a year. Hopefully I'll be able send the route this fall when I can make it back to Utah.


Location 

On the right side past Fatted Calf


Protection 

Five closely spaced bolts lead to a splitter that widens from thin fingers to thin hands. A #2 and #3 camalot protect the pod between the face climbing and the splitter.



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By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Apr 16, 2013

i think the full on look of this bad mother will keep folks off it looks like you did a great job of cleaning this.. im a loco so if you would like me to put a small plaque letting folks know that you are really wanting to be the first man up the route... i will do so as i will be up their this weeknd for my red point of S.COW as i fell off the top an did not send... let me know just a thought... cheers DF

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 16, 2013

Sure, if you want to put another plaque that says "Closed Project" or something logical that would be fine. There is a plaque that says Surf and Turf at the base right now.

Good luck on Sacred Cow, that is a fine route!! By chance were you at the Cliffs of Insanity last Saturday?

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Apr 17, 2013

yes sir had to do some research on a climb. an make sure some of my rout's were not damaged by the 2012 rock fall.

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 17, 2013

Very cool. My wife and I were the ones trying Broken Brain. I think we chatted with you and a lady friend a few times. The Six Fingered Man looks pretty cool. More of .5's or .75's at the crux? Nice and spiltter, good find!!

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Apr 18, 2013

.75 camlots .. good show by you an yer lady on Broken Brain ... o an have a green alien for the top of "Six Fingered man" cheers.. DF

By chris Kalous
Nov 25, 2013

This thing looks rad. Did it get it done yet?

Maybe not the biggest deal on a far away cliff like SC, but I humbly suggest adding a can of brown spray primer to you bolting kit.

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Dec 12, 2013

At the time I was pretty obsessed and sad that I didn't have enough time to get it done. That's the main reason I entered it in MP.com I also made a plaque with a grade at the base, which would make it seem like I sent.

I'll get a can of paint for when I go back. What brand/type do you like? Painted hangers has not lasted in the past, I assume i'm doint it wrong...

I'm not very good at the rattly finger size. Campusing big .5 camalots seems to be the crux on this one. Perhaps you can lay it back... The face climbing is pretty interesting too.

Chris, I didn't make it back to IC. Thanksgiving week ended up being pretty cold anyways.

If you wanted to get on it, then go for it. Otherwise I'll have hope that I will make it out in the spring.

By chris Kalous
Apr 17, 2014

I just use a brown primer available at any hardware store. Really, it's about taking the shine off, so they don't have to look perfect. Like I said, it's not that big of a deal so far out. More of a good habit to get into.

I don't need to get on that route, nor does anybody else.

Did you get back this spring?