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Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Micah Issac, T. Bubb, 6/26/11
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces North/Northwest
Page Views: 369
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 27, 2011
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Tony B reaches up and into the crux through the ro...
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a good route with a great crux and some surprising holds. This is the best route on the Third Advisor.

Climb up the left-leaning, finger-to-hand sized cracks and offsets past a hard move to get off the ground, and onto a small ledge. Place gear from the first ledge and pass a few small clumps of grass up and left into moderate climbing. Head up into the crack as it heads up into the pinched block at the bulge/roof. Place good gear (2" cam) before hitting the pinched block, then go up and into the pinched block on good holds to pull the surprising crux. Top out and belay the second from gear (3-4" cams a few meters back might be the best belay).

To descend, scramble West at the rock's Northern edge down a very shallow gully to the ground - 3rd class.


Location 

This route is on the upper Northwest end of the Third Advisor, following a left-leaning crack through the bulging roof at the rock's Northern-most point, just below the summit.


Protection 

A standard light rack to 3". The crux gear is 1.5-2" cams.



Photos of Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie Slideshow Add Photo
Micah very happily out above the crux on the F.A. of "Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie." Photo by Tony B., 6/2011.
BETA PHOTO: Micah very happily out above the crux on the F.A. ...
Tony B. follows on the F.A. of Supposed.... Photo by Micah, 6/2011.
Tony B. follows on the F.A. of Supposed.... Photo ...
Tony B over the roof on "Supposed..." happy to be on secure holds and trying to establish feet. Photo by Micah, 6/2011.
Tony B over the roof on "Supposed..." happy to be ...
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2012

Someone should go get on this thing and check it out - verify grade, etc....