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Boulder Gully
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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Barley, Turley 1982
Page Views: 1,579
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Unknown climber in the middle of a mini-epic on Su...

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


Lots of action here. Start with an undercling traverse left (~5.9). Then up a pretty easy left facing corner until you can traverse right to a series of bolts which diagonal up and right. Face climb past the bolts (10-) with a long clip at the 3rd or 4th. After the bolts, follow a crack until it seems easier to move right to a parallel crack; switching cracks is the crux. Follow this crack to the top where you can either traverse right to a set of anchors or belay from a power tower support cable. At the start be conscious of future rope drag when placing your gear.

A 70M rope is required to lower from the fixed anchors, but I believe one can rap from here w/ a 60M, though I not sure so tie your rope ends together and use your own judgement.


The left most climb on the west facing portion of Boulder Gully. Start below the right end of a small arch.


Standard Squamish rack, small nuts to hand size cams. Some long slings and/or double ropes.

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Brad starting up Supervalue.  The rope ended up sn...
Brad starting up Supervalue. The rope ended up sn...

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Awesome, well protected climb with a super short approach. The upper cracks protects perfectly. To avoid rope drag, use long slings on the pieces at the undercling, and if you must place a piece on the left side (after completing the undercling) - use a double length sling. That's what I did and the rope drag was manageable. I didn't notice any hard parts on the twin cracks up top, and thought the crux was the bolted portion. Gear to #2 camalot (I placed two of them). I placed two #1 camalots. (one to protect the second on the final move).
By blakeherrington
Sep 17, 2008

This climb is the most fun you can legally have while (basically) in a public parking lot. Backclean your gear out of the small left-facing corner or use double ropes.
By Hans
From: North Vancouver, BC
Jan 23, 2010

One of the bolts is really hard to reach if you're short like me.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 21, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The first three bolts on this route need to be replaced, FYI.
By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Jan 23, 2011

Using double ropes is really helpful for this one.
By Kenn Sippell
From: Vancouver, British Columbia
Sep 4, 2012

Recently re-bolted. I think there is one new one.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Jun 3, 2013

Really really nice route. I was surprised at how much I enjoyed it!

The start is a pain as you pretty much have to back clean aggressively or really extend your pieces to avoid heinous rope drag. The start is fun and a touch exciting. The face climbing has cool, well protected movement and the crack and slab are just fun.

Get on it!

Also, yes, you can rap with a 60. Probably can't lower, though.
By Wesley Ashwood
From: Squamish, BC
Jul 25, 2013

Definitely back clean if you can, or better yet, dont place any gear at the start until you are up at the bolts otherwise... crazy rope drag!
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