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Middle Wall
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Disinclination S 
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Supernatural 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Raoul Rossiter, 2000
Page Views: 3,324
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (101)
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Tally & Ellen O'Donnell on Supernatural.
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Description 

Start just left of Strange Science on a platform below a huge boulder.

Climb a stepped face, go left to a corner, layback up to a ledge, and fire up a steep headwall.

Excellent climb with several hard moves.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The route is 85' long.



Photos of Supernatural Slideshow Add Photo
Supernatural and Strange Science.
BETA PHOTO: Supernatural and Strange Science.
Kevin down low.
Kevin down low.
Jim Garber laybacking the corner by the fourth bolt.
Jim Garber laybacking the corner by the fourth bol...
Pulling hard at the final bolt.
Pulling hard at the final bolt.
Mico Alejandro, who is shown here sporting his favorite Bruce Lee TShirt, clips his draw in the most fun sequence of this route.
Mico Alejandro, who is shown here sporting his fav...
Myself on Supernatural.  This line is great!
Myself on Supernatural. This line is great!
Comments on Supernatural Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 21, 2013
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 25, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I placed green and yellow Aliens between some of the bolts. When there are cracks I bring gear, even on sport climbs. (Explaining, not complaining, although a couple of the bolts are unnecessary.)

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 8, 2004

This route is awesome and a must-do if you're at the Avalon. I don't know why it wouldn't get at least 2 stars. There's 2 bolts that are not necessary, as gear will protect their moves but the climbing is awesome.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Pretty solid climbing and probably like most at the cliff in that it is over graded at least a tad. Nice climb though, with good rock and fun moves. A lot of variety in the holds and moves keeps it interesting. Could get pumpy if you spent a lot of time trying to figure it out.

By ac
Sep 23, 2005

Young Doug...[Didn't] know the name when we did it. Thought it to be .10c/d-ish. Maybe my ape-index helps, but certainly there are no moves here that would be considered .11a..again, I must consider other benchmark routes at the grade. I am not a cutting-edge climber, but have 20+ years climbing in the Boulder area. I say that to lend some credentials to my stance on the grades. I would say this is a nice pitch, and well worth doing if you are up there..after all Boulder Canyon is a lot about quantity of routes in a day.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 26, 2007

One of the best lines at the cliff! A TCU/Alien just below the 5th bolt is comforting if you're too short to make the clip from the ledge.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 2, 2007

Good route with varied climbing. Even a little bit of finger crack underclinging. Not an 11 but still a worthwhile climb to do.

CL

By patrick kadel
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I am short, Alien not needed. High left foot and and good crimp in the crack allows to go up, clip the bolt and lower back down to the restful stance. The move is secure and quicker than placing an Alien a foot below a bolt.

By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This climb is not to be missed. Interesting climbing the whole way, and while the bolted crack probably detracts from the climb, most people would just skip it rather than bring one piece of gear, so it seems justified. Interesting moves up top with insecure feet on steep terrain, but it's definitely all there.

By nicholas patterson
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2012

This is a great route. I found the bottom three bolts to be thought provoking and balance intensive; while the top is powerful for an onsight.
As far as the grade, I'd say it's .11a if Free Willie is, which I found to be considerably less difficult.

By Christina kalb
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I didn't use any additional gear. The guidebook says to bring a few small cams. They may be useful between bolts 3 and 4 and 4 and 5 if you are shorter. For me, a fall before clipping bolt 4 would have been a hard swing into the wall below, and I couldn't reach bolt 5 from the ledge. I also had difficulty reaching some of the holds in bolts 6 to 7 section. I suspect those who are shorter are the ones who rate the climb 11. If you are taller, it will seem easier.

By Jon H
From: Boulder
Jul 21, 2013

Hands down, the best route at Middle Tier. Three dimensional climbing, spicy runouts, cool transitions as you work around the arete... this route has it all. Way better, IMHO, than Strange Science, Riptide, or Freefall.