Superior Arete 5.12c
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b/c [details] |
| FA: | FA: Dave Groth FFA: Rob Pilaczynski, August 28, 2011. |
| Submitted By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Superior Arete
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Description Stuck in the spotlight, it is hard to miss the line. Start up Superior Crack for 15 feet or so until you can traverse right onto the arete via edges. The route weaves its way up the arete switching sides now and then, with the crux at a small roof 1/3 or so the way up. Excellent stone and movement.
Protection Quote from Rob Pilaczynski (FFA):
"The two cruxes have bomber gear right below them. I placed a total of five pieces, and I think you would be hard pressed to find any more than that. The first piece is right when you step right out of Superior crack, a .75 BD in a vertical crack. Right below the first roof I placed a bomber yellow alien in the constricting crack. After pulling the roof, you move left then back right to the arete and can fit a really good .5 BD in a small vertical seam. Once on the giant rest ledge, look around the corner to place a blue alien in a horizontal crack, then run it out to the last roof and place a horizontal green C3 before committing to the final headwall."
Joel Therneau working Superior Arete. Summer, 2005...
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Superior Arete Sequence 1
Photos by Jason Hedlund
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| Comments on Superior Arete |
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By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Apr 24, 2008
| It is a wild and complicated line also really fun. I just did the first TR about 5 years ago. |
By James Loveridge
From: Duluth, MN
Apr 25, 2008
rating: 5.12b
| I also wanted to add my name to the list of contacts for beta/info. Dave and I are the main activists here recently (along with Jeremy Schlick and Seth Dyer but they have moved to less topographically challenged locales). Please feel free to e-mail us through the "Contact" link on the personal page of this website. |
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Sep 1, 2011
| Yes, I heard it was led last weekend by a local climber, Rob P. |
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 1, 2011
| that's a super ballsy lead. i'd like to hear some details. was it a headpoint? what gear did he use? got any photos? |
By Rob P.
From: Bay Area
Sep 6, 2011
| I did indeed lead this, twice now infact. I of course did it headpoint style.
The gear is all there, and reasonably spaced. The two cruxes have really good gear right below them. I placed a total of five pieces, and I think you would be hard pressed to find any more than that. The first piece is right when you step right out of Superior crack, a .75 BD in a vertical crack. Right below the first roof I placed a bomber yellow alien in the constricting crack. After pulling the roof, you move left then back right to the arete and can fit a good .5 BD in a small vertical seam. Once on the giant rest ledge, look around the corner to place a blue alien in a horizontal crack, then run it out to the last roof and place a horizontal green C3 before committing to the final headwall.
This climb ranks right up there with OZ and Poseidon as the best climbs at Palisade in my opinion. Awesome movement on amazingly solid rock with a perfect position.
I had two people take photos yesterday when I led it the second time, so hopefully we can get those posted soon. |
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Sep 6, 2011
| Congrats on the FFA, Rob! |
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 4, 2011
| Right on Rob! What a commiting line in such a stellar spot. Congrats on the FFA. That's a good one. |
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