Superfresh Dihedral
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 55 ft (17 m) |
FA: | uncertain |
Page Views: | 1,068 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 12, 2012 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is mostly good climbing with some of it being on poor rock. This climb can be made safe, but it requires good judgment in both using holds and placing protection. There are loose flakes in and around the crack. In summary, this is not a good climb to push for if close to one's grade or for a new trad leader.
It is a good climb solidly into the 5.10 grade. Consider wearing sleeves and tape gloves to protect yourself against sharp edges.
It is a good climb solidly into the 5.10 grade. Consider wearing sleeves and tape gloves to protect yourself against sharp edges.
Location
The route lies practically on the Fern Canyon trail, and it is the right-facing crack/flake/corner that faces South on the Superfresh block. Head up and into it placing your full set of cams starting at just under 2" and working up to 4-5", with a small cam optional up top (1-1.5").
Above the corner system, belay on 2 small trees. To retreat, scramble West on the ledge with the 2 small trees, then go North up a slab to a large tree, then down the Northwest-most prow of the block to the base (5.4).
Above the corner system, belay on 2 small trees. To retreat, scramble West on the ledge with the 2 small trees, then go North up a slab to a large tree, then down the Northwest-most prow of the block to the base (5.4).
Protection
A single set of cams from 1" to #4 Camalot. A very large cam can be used up top, but there are other alternatives for protection there, including a 1" cam out to the left of the main crack. A new #4 Camalot is the crux pro. An old one is a little large, and a #3 is in a questionable area of rock. So take the new #4.
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