Type: Trad, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: uncertain
Page Views: 1,068 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 12, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is mostly good climbing with some of it being on poor rock. This climb can be made safe, but it requires good judgment in both using holds and placing protection. There are loose flakes in and around the crack. In summary, this is not a good climb to push for if close to one's grade or for a new trad leader.

It is a good climb solidly into the 5.10 grade. Consider wearing sleeves and tape gloves to protect yourself against sharp edges.

Location Suggest change

The route lies practically on the Fern Canyon trail, and it is the right-facing crack/flake/corner that faces South on the Superfresh block. Head up and into it placing your full set of cams starting at just under 2" and working up to 4-5", with a small cam optional up top (1-1.5").

Above the corner system, belay on 2 small trees. To retreat, scramble West on the ledge with the 2 small trees, then go North up a slab to a large tree, then down the Northwest-most prow of the block to the base (5.4).

Protection Suggest change

A single set of cams from 1" to #4 Camalot. A very large cam can be used up top, but there are other alternatives for protection there, including a 1" cam out to the left of the main crack. A new #4 Camalot is the crux pro. An old one is a little large, and a #3 is in a questionable area of rock. So take the new #4.

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