Superfly 5.12d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c/d [details] |
| FA: | Skip Guerin, 1983 |
| Fixed Hardware: | 2 Belay Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | Hank the Tank on Nov 24, 2006 |
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Ted Lanzano at the crux of Superfly. Photo by Cody...
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Description Not really a one move wonder, buuuttttt. It has a burly set up with one fat reach at mid-height, then stays hard 11 all the way to the top. This a great route for the climber that's got that, "Been there, done that, 12d, kinda attitude". Definitely unique.
If that's not good enough for ya, Chad Greedy has added a VERY sweet direct start to Superfly, tentatively called "Supah Dupah Fly", that kicks the whole thing to 13b or so....
Location The more reasonable looking line just right of Iron Monkey. Begin up and right on top of some blocks (purple tiny TCU) and traverse in left on to powerful and overhanging terrain (great orange/yellow Aliens). Make an improbable reach for good crystal and move up and left into an obvious and steep layback system (freaky #3 Camalot) that gets you to the anchors.
Protection This was an early Eldo horrow show done classic Skip style, with Christian Griffith and Chip Ruckgaber for partners. Today's modern cams-Aliens/TCUs have made this a much more reasonably protected outing. It can still, just, keep its R rating though, I think.
Skip leading Superfly, photo: Bob Horan Collection...
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Steve about to enter the "business" on Superfly.
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Steve plugs in his gear before the crux section. ...
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Josh sticking "the move" on Superfly.
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Josh, still in the business, on Superfly.
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Rob cruxing on Superfly.
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Rob on Superfly.
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Brad Gobright commits to the burly crux.
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Brad Gobright making the big "toss".
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Brad Gobright entering the final corner.
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Brad Gobright getting his RP two days later!
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Joe Mills on his Flash of Superfly! Yeah!
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Joe Mills on his Flash of Superfly.
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Joe Mills about to enter the business.
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Gettin' super!
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Superfly.
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By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Nov 24, 2009
| As a wimpy, bolt clipping, sport wanker, I found the gear on Superfly to be thin but very good and the pro was never more than 5 feet apart. The danger rating on this climb is very inflated. In my opinion, this route doesn't even deserve a PG 13 rating. So don't let the R rating keep you from trying this route. It's excellent, and very safe. |
By Josh Janes
Jan 1, 2010
| Pro is definitely more than 5 feet apart but generally pretty good where you need it. I think injury could only be the result of a freak accident on this route for a competent leader. Also, we would start left of the line and traverse in right - following obvious, chalked holds and good climbing before the biz - the way Skip is doing it in the photo. |
By Hank the Tank
From: Golden, CO
Jan 3, 2010
| Shut up Josh, I nixed the R rating. If the SHALLOW #3 Camalot blows, tell me where to send the flowers. |
By Scott Bennett
Jan 13, 2010
rating: 5.12d
| Yeah, that #3 looks shady, fortunately there's a pretty good looking green Camalot a few inches below.
Agreed that it shouldn't get an R, but you'd better nail every placement or else things could get dangerous in a hurry.
-Scott |
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Jan 13, 2010
| Boy oh boy.... |
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