Two v. fine pitches -- the first up to an exciting roof (which is more traversed than surmounted: right off a big horn, then back left on big holds), the second with a steep flake/corner of liebacking and jamming.
Comfortable ledge between pitches.
One seasoned Gorger I know calls this the best 5.10 in the ORG.
9 bolts on each pitch. Two single rope (60 m.) rappels to descend.
Dave Goldstein pulling through the P1 crux
Richard Robinson Reaching through the crux.
|By david goldstein|
Nov 28, 2006
I might call it the best 5.10 sport climb in the country.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Jul 4, 2007
Really really fun! The first pitch was surprisingly easy. The second was surprisingly hard and sustained. I remember thinking that I would certainly grease off at any moment, but somehow kept moving upwards anyway.
|By Isaac T.|
From: Rockville, MD
Nov 21, 2007
Actually if you reach up from the ginormous hold under the roof you can reach a HUGE super bomber pocket and kick your feet out. This bi-passes the traverse. A very fun move!
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 17, 2008
9/10 climb - loses a point only b/c there's still a bit of bat shit to be negotiated on p2. But that won't kill ya.
|By Jon O'Brien|
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Loses a point for bat shit?! Hmmm... that's very rugged of you.
Feb 2, 2012
If you know how to bandaloop, you can swing over to a bolt on Wooly Bogger, climb up a bit and set up a toprope on it. Superfly is Sooper rad.
From: Lyon, FR
Feb 6, 2012
A must do if you're in the Gorge. Don't even think about only doing the 1st pitch, the 2nd is also great!
From: Riverside, CA
Oct 1, 2012
There is bat shit EVERYWHERE on this climb... Rather nasty but still super rad climb!
From: Lyons, CO
Jan 18, 2013
This route can be done in one long enduro pitch if you have enough draws. Don't miss the cliffhanger maneuver on P1.
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 2, 2013
The horn on the first pitch flexed noticeably this last weekend which I don't remember from several years back. Additionally I would say the rock on the 2nd pitch has some questionable looking blocks. I pulled on them with no incidence but just be aware.
Guide says you can link into one long pitch which is true but with quite a bit of rope drag even with using long slings. I was barely able to lower back to first pitch anchor after linking with a 60m and so doubt you could toprope as one long pitch with 70m either. Best to climb as 2 separate pitches. As stated above the ledge is nice and can accomadate 3 people easily.