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Superdirect T 

Superdirect 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ray Evans & Hank Pasquill, 1974
Page Views: 81
Submitted By: Rob Davies UK on Oct 26, 2011

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Description 

P1: 5.7 (4b) 70' From the foot of the buttress head up and right, past spikes, traversing above a rock scar. Easy, but runners a bit sparse.
P2: 5.9+ R (5b) 130' Up to the overhang, good runner, then traverse delicately left to a thin crack in the slab. Follow this past a flake, getting easier higher up, to belay on a ledge.
P3: 5.10a (5b+) Past a flake above to a short corner and an overhang which is past by strenuous layaways (well protected).

Location 

Start at the base of the Nose. Descend by down-climbing (tricky when wet) the gullies on either side of the Nose, or by abseiling these.

Protection 

Plenty of wires and small cams.


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