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Pitch 1 is the biznass. Start on a bouldery crux on the chalked holds through some thin holds to an obvious broken crack feature. Crank through this pumpy crack for about 40 feet to slightly easier terrain then to a horn with slings.
Pitch 2, climb 5.8ish over a bulge straight to the top of the buttress.
Pitch 3, head 50 feet to cross a chasm to top out on a short step section to the top.
Located to the left of Stopperhead Arete on the obvious crack system up beautiful solid stone. If you come to the Paradise routes, you've gone too far.
Typical NC rack.
From: western NC
Oct 1, 2012
It's been a long time since I've done this thing, but I remember pitch 1 being about 80' or so. Also, if the slings are bad it is possible to move up and right to the Anchor of "stopphead arete" if rapping from the first pitch.
|By Neil Rankin|
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Nbrown is correct. The first pitch is about 80 feet.