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Shortoff Mountain
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Twist of fate 
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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Jim Okel, Bill Newman
Page Views: 1,024
Submitted By: Phil York on Aug 28, 2012
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Fantastic crack and jug climbing!

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  • Description 

    Pitch 1 is the biznass. Start on a bouldery crux on the chalked holds through some thin holds to an obvious broken crack feature. Crank through this pumpy crack for about 40 feet to slightly easier terrain then to a horn with slings.

    Pitch 2, climb 5.8ish over a bulge straight to the top of the buttress.

    Pitch 3, head 50 feet to cross a chasm to top out on a short step section to the top.


    Located to the left of Stopperhead Arete on the obvious crack system up beautiful solid stone. If you come to the Paradise routes, you've gone too far.


    Typical NC rack.

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    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Oct 1, 2012

    It's been a long time since I've done this thing, but I remember pitch 1 being about 80' or so. Also, if the slings are bad it is possible to move up and right to the Anchor of "stopphead arete" if rapping from the first pitch.

    By Neil Rankin
    From: Greensboro, NC
    Aug 30, 2013
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

    Nbrown is correct. The first pitch is about 80 feet.

    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Mar 11, 2014

    Cleaned up the ridiculous amount of tat at the top of pitch 1 today and left 2 bomber stainless cabled hex-like chocks instead. Much safer and much less of a visual impact.