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Can be climbed as 1 or 2 pitches. Start up a splitter fingers crack using the chimney on the right. After a body length or so, enter the chimney and scramble over some blocks (secure) to the back. Ascend the left facing hand crack with the pillar that forms the chimney at your back until you are at the top of the chimney. opt. bolted belay here.
Climb the left facing hand crack with the crux being at the top just before the anchor.
The left facing corner just left of "rad bad" with a pillar at its base..
rap the route: rap to the top of the pillar. Then rap down the front of the pillar, this will assure you wont get your rope stuck in the chimney
p1. .3, 1camalot, a couple of shoulder length slings
p2. .75-3 camalots heaviest on gold and blue's
|By Karl kelley|
Aug 9, 2011
In Doc Blooms 2nd addition, this route is marked as #2 "unnamed" 5.11+
There were no anchors on the tips splitter nor any evidence that it had ever been climbed (flakey and loose where for sure you would clean it out to climb it)so we continued up the corner thinking the corner must have anchors. It was obvious half way up the route, to our surprise, it had not been ascended. Great route with stacks of hand jams.. There is a climb just left of this (left Facing corner to a splitter) Then left of it, is a fingers crack with a hidden anchor over a bulge that maybe Doctor Bloom was talking about and it just got miss marked in the book..
|By Devin Fin|
Aug 21, 2012
Karl thanks for talking to me at SC this summer you are a wealth of knowledge .. this route an all the others you have put up over the years have made me the climber i am.. thanks
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Don't let the first pitch scare you away. The second pitch is hidden from below but is totally worth the effort.
|By BJ Sbarra|
From: Carbondale, CO
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Very fun as one long pitch, get creative with the rope management or drag could be heinous. We were able to get down with an 80m rope without any directionals, but just barely. I also liked having 2 .3's and a .4 for the start. Crazy this didn't have anchors on it, great find! FYI the left bolt (not the hanger) on the anchor atop the pillar is moving.