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 ADVANCED
Mezzanine
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38 Special 
Atomic 
Beginner's Overhang 
Cold Fusion 
Diesel 
Falcon's Talon 
Fission 
Geo Thermal 
Green Energy Traverse 
Sleestack 
Sloper Traverse 
Super Sloper 
Well, It's My Birthday, Too 
You Say It's Your Birthday 

Super Sloper 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5- Font: 6C [details]
FA: Doug Rouse
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 561
Submitted By: doug rouse on Jan 1, 2009

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Doug on Super Sloper!

Description 

Super Sloper moves past some very cool holds to a nice easy climb-off. From a foot-long sloping ramp low, and near the east end of Green Energy, pull straight up with the right hand to a gnarly sloping hold on the lip of the bulge, bring up the left to an arete squeeze about 1-foot left of the R hand. Bring the feet, then pop the right hand to a 3"-wide 1st pad ledge up and right of the right hand. Viola.

Location 

The start is off of the second hold along the Green Energy Traverse.

Protection 

Pad, spotter.


Photos of Super Sloper Slideshow Add Photo
Cling!
Cling!
Finish around the corner on the Diesel jug.
Finish around the corner on the Diesel jug.

Comments on Super Sloper Add Comment
Show which comments
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Mar 25, 2009

To aid in the location of this line..On the Mezzanine home page Falcon's left foot is on the starting holds, and his left hand is about 3" to the right of the 1st hold that the Right hand moves to. The left comes up to the arete/sloper about 14" left of the right hand. Up from there to a small edge above the right hand.
By mikejohnson1
From: Essex Junction, VT
May 3, 2009
rating: V5- 6C

The start hold for this climb is about to break off. In addition, someone broke off the loose foothold for the start, making it very hard to do the first move (for me, at least). The climb might not exist in a couple of months.
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
May 5, 2009

Pretty insecure starting hold, that I also use on Green Energy. Just left of this hold are two small "finger buckets" that have also been used for the start, and I believe would not affect the grade. These two holds are the point where you shoot the large dyno on Green Energy to the rail, and make for a place to start Super Sloper from. You still have full value in body tension, and cling factor!
By mikejohnson1
From: Essex Junction, VT
May 15, 2009
rating: V5- 6C

I just sent it using these holds, and although it is still fun, it is not as hard as using the other start. Still some interesting movement. Would be better if it were more moves and weren't as contrived. Good problem!
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Jun 2, 2009

I added the start to this from My Girlfriends a Tweaker/Geo Thermal, right into the Nodule holds. I am thinking solid at the grade now....