Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arcane Saw 
Bitter Route, The 
Breakfast Of Champions 
Cabana Boy 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana 
Captain Crunch 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy 
Day Dream 
Dispensary, The 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation 
Flakey Floont 
Flower Quarter 
Greaser, The 
Hasting's Cutoff 
Lemon Line 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly 
Loose Lucy 
Lucid Dream 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect 
Mr. Natural 
Over 'ed Power Line 
Quantum Mechanics 
Real Men Eat Eggs 
Rough Roof 
Roving for Love 
Senora (??) 
Slimy Spoon, The 
Strangle Hold 
Sub Slab 
Super Natural 
Super Slab Direct Start 
Tiny Line 
Toys for Tots 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 
Velvet Arete, The 
Velvet Hammer 
Vertical Smile 
Waking Sleep 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 
Zombies on the Lookout 

Super Slab Direct Start 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Art Higby & Larry Marquardt, 1973. (Pat Ament, Larry Dalke?)
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 753
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Nov 20, 2007
Good Page? 1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
From the early 70s, note EBs, hexes, stoppers and ...
  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This often over looked route has a pretty good first pitch but the second pitch is a little loose and dirty.

    P1: Make a committing move right off the ground and clip a good pin. The crux is trying to get past this pin and it is very height dependent. If your about 6' tall, 11c is probably accurate, taller and it is easier, shorter and it's probably 5.12. Continue up an easier, left-facing dihedral to a broken ledge and belay.

    P2: Climb straight up from the ledge following a broken up crack system that angles slightly left. This pitch is a little runout, but the climbing isn't very difficult, maybe 10a. Belay on the ledge at the start of Super Slab.


    This route starts right off the trail just left of Suparete. Look for a steep face/crack with a Lost Arrow pin in it.


    Standard rack up to a #2 or #3 Camalot.

    Comments on Super Slab Direct Start Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Larry Marquardt
    Aug 31, 2009

    Art Higby and I did the FFA in 1973

    By YDPL8S
    From: Santa Monica, Ca.
    Sep 1, 2009
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

    Cool Larry, I think this picture was taken around that same time, might have been '74, I'll have to check the date on my slide. Chuck Tolton and I think Mark Jansen were there that day, along with Gary. I'm not sure who the belayer is.