Super Mama (Direct)  5.13a/b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.13a/b [details] FA:  M. Wendling - Super Mama, (Josh Merriam- Direct 8-31-08?) Submitted By:  Joshua Merriam on Jul 8, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

reaching for the peanut shaped pocket at the 6th b...

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Description 

On July 4th, 2008 during the 10th Ten Sleep climbing Festival, I returned to the French Cattle Ranch to add bolts for the direct start to this beautiful line. The original start, shared with Sugar Mama, traversed in from the left following a crack which peters out as it gains the gold streak at the fifth bolt. Long moves between amazing pockets and small crimps lead up the remaining six bolts.

Four new bolts go directly up the gold streak to the beginning of the original crux. Start at the eye level flake and do some thin slab moves at the second bolt. Then zig zag a bit following the best holds you can find till joining the original line.

The upper section has many hard, long moves up vertical terrain with marginal feet. I particularly love the "peanut" hold which is a shallow oblong pocket for your index and ring, but too pinched off for the middle. A pair of good rest holds allow a shake before the undercling and crimp sequence guarding the last bolt before the anchors.

The original guide called this the best line on the wall, and I feel that the direct start improves the continuity and the aesthetics. I'd give it a quality rating of three beautiful ladies wrapped in two American flags.

Location 

climbs a Gold streak pinned between two grey/blue patches.

Locate the wide crack/chimney start for "Escaping the pod", and then diagonaling up and right, the crack start for "Sugar Mama". There is a flake on the wall in the gold streak at the base of the direct line.

Protection 

10 draws, the anchor has an open shunt, and should have a convenience 'biner on the other bolt.

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a thin undercling move at the last bolt guards the...