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Super Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,560
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Jan 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the start of Super Direct.

Description 

Climb the right-facing crack around an over-hang. Seems like the hard move is getting started. Wander up following a crack system then right around a roof then back left to a tree ledge. Belay. Climb a chimney or a number of easy variations to the "Crow's Nest."

Location 

To the right of Sentinel Buttress. Look for the nice looking crack with an overhang on the toe of the buttress. Just to the left of a cave.

Protection 

NC rack. 60m rope. Rap from atop the "Crow's Nest."


Photos of Super Direct Slideshow Add Photo
View of P1 Super Direct (from a bit further back than other shot). Sorry about the trees, this one is sort of a pain to get in frame...
BETA PHOTO: View of P1 Super Direct (from a bit further back t...

Comments on Super Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The first pitch is great; the opening moves are hard and non-intuitive. I think the old Kelley guide's rating of 5.9 is right on.

I thought P2 was pretty crappy by comparison with the first pitch. The so-called "chimney" described in the Select guide is actually a wide crack choked with vegetation, which my partner and I avoided entirely.
By Matt Westlake
Nov 20, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Opening is indeed the business - getting around to/up and over the roof. Mercifully it protects well with small .3/.4? BD cams and a bomber nut protects the pull over move (if you can hang on to plug it in!). From there it's fairly casual by comparison. Traverses pretty far left to the chimney when you reach the top of the main crack.

The second pitch has it's moments, and there are several lines possible. The most enjoyable that I've found is to go straight up the overhanging bit after the crappy chimney. It's pretty easy but is quite exposed for the grade - maybe 5.5? Sort of Gunks-esque.
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I have no idea if we did the right start to this, or the right line at all for that matter. We started up a steep finger crack with a couple of roofs, which was hard enough to make the 5.8 rating seem like a joke. Bomber nuts abound but I had real issues with the rope getting stuck in the crack. It made me cringe to abandon these nut placements for less elegant cams outside of the main crack, but drag became infinitely better once I did. After the initial crank, the rest of the climb is a routefinding adventure.
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

That sounds about right sanz. 5.8 at Moore's is usually fairly hard. Have you done Airshow yet?
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This felt 10 times harder than Airshow to me, but maybe I just suck at overhanging finger cracks.
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think Super DIrect just feels hard because you could hit the ground if you blow the crux. If the moves were 50 feet up a clean face it would probably feel about has hard as Air Show, which also gets 8+.
By hause
From: carrboro, nc
Sep 1, 2013

The start is the hardest part, very much like a V3 boulder move.
By Emil Briggs
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route has been the site of more than one mini-epic when the second was unable to pull the roof. If you have any doubts you might want to setup a cheater sling for them since otherwise getting your gear back off the route is a PITA.