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This is a deceiving route. From the other side of the canyon, the crux of this climb looks like a merely wavy wall perhaps a touch beyond the vertical. Yet, from below, the crux feels like it overhangs 6-10 feet in 25. Not as steep as the heinous cave routes of Vail, but, nonetheless, biceps beware!
Find this route as the second area downstream from the lower bridge ascending a chunk of rock on the West side of the gorge. There appears to be a splitter crack in the middle of the wall. It lies just upstream from Popsicle and the hanging curtain of Dreamsicle.
Ascend moderate ice from the river to a good ledge below the rock. The pump starts early on the rock here with a bit of overhang. You may likely need to slot your hammer as the crack widens. Choke up high and reach a pick slot. From here, it gets trickier with some torqued picks in the crack or possibly balance on sloping face holds. Feet scratch around on sloping face holds. Rear back for a good pick slot. Long reaches to delicate pick slots on wedged chockstones move you up higher. Find another good pick slot. Match. From here you can move right onto the curtain if it is thick enough (not for me). Or, move left on rock until you gain a big flat edge. May the ice be thick and solid on top. Whoa! A pumper for such a short crux. This may be very desperate to fiddle with pro on this headwall.
Definitely more desperate than Tic Tac or Jesus Built My Finger Crack.
Rock gear to about 2 1/2" plus screws/slings. No bolts.
Erik Wellborn Cruising Super Dave, fun route.
|By Jason Nelson|
From: SLC, UT
Feb 12, 2009
I'm assuming it was Dave Bangert who did the FA on this, but I'm not 100% on that.
|By Bryan Gilmore|
From: Your Mama
Dec 15, 2009
He put this, and others, up in the winter of 1999 wearing sweat pants and a Star-Trek T-shirt, no shit. I hear he still gets after it once in a while!
|By erik wellborn|
From: manitou springs
Feb 10, 2010
This is a really, really fun route with good pro.