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Thunder Buttress
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Momma's Squeeze Box T 
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Screamer Crack T 
Super Crack T 
Transcendence S 

Super Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: N. Brash, C. Basham, 1980
Page Views: 6,628
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Apr 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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BETA PHOTO: Super Crack. Fall, 2001.

Description 

One of the very best climbs of the grade at the New. Continuously difficult. Use longer slings at the bottom roof to avoid rope drag higher up. Save your strength and #1 and #2 cams for the crux up top. Some spectacular whippers from the very last moves have been seen.

Location 

Just to the right of the yellow face with the bolted Gun Club there's a corner with a prominent crack in it. This is the climb.

Protection 

Small and hand size cams, and a set of nuts provide excellent pro.


Photos of Super Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Near the top <br />photo by Mike Turner
Near the top photo by Mike Turner
Eben and Ange on Supercrack
Eben and Ange on Supercrack
View from the top of Supercrack. 10/9/2010
View from the top of Supercrack. 10/9/2010

Comments on Super Crack Add Comment
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By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Apr 23, 2007

Very Good Route

Compared to alot of the other 9s (Chockstone,Roy's Lament, New Yosemite, Happy Hands, Diversity in Microcosm, Four Sheets to the Wind, Layback) this is probably the easist.
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If you'd like to save on weight and/or don't have a lot of #1 and #2 Camalots, there are a lot of great placements for hexes. Plus, since this isn't too strenous of a climb, it's a great chance to practice placing them. As for Brian's comment, I would disagree that this is the easiest of all of those routes. That's just my opinion though.
By attila
Nov 13, 2010

The climb is strenuous because the stances to place pro are usually strenuous; much more challenging on lead than seconding. Pro is excellent. The whippers at the top probably happen because it's hard to place pro while doing the layback moves needed there.
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Dec 18, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I'm not good at remembering route names but I'd tend to agree with Brian... this one is not hard. People whip off the top because they don't know how to climb cracks. There are no layback moves up there.
By Sam Stephens
Jan 21, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Brian and Ryan are right on about this route. The top is only hard because all of a sudden it's in your face unlike the rest of the route. People get to it and freak out, but if you climb smart it's just as chill as the rest of the route.

And FWIW, I've found plenty of stances that aren't "strenuous" to place gear.
By Will Stat
Jun 25, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I'd say super crack is harder than new yosemite. The stances are all pretty solid until the last 25'. There is a fixed cam 15' from the top that you can clip and go on. It would be a fun lob from the crux. Great view on top.
By K Baumgartner
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Not sure what Ryan Williams is saying by there are no layback moves "up there". I know how to climb cracks and laybacked the last 15-20 feet on strenuous climbing.