Super Crack 5.9+
| 4,355 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | N. Brash, C. Basham, 1980 |
| Submitted By: | Kris Gorny on Apr 20, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Super Crack. Fall, 2001.
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Description One of the very best climbs of the grade at the New. Continuously difficult. Use longer slings at the bottom roof to avoid rope drag higher up. Save your strength and #1 and #2 cams for the crux up top. Some spectacular whippers from the very last moves have been seen.
Location Just to the right of the yellow face with the bolted Gun Club there's a corner with a prominent crack in it. This is the climb.
Protection Small and hand size cams, and a set of nuts provide excellent pro.
View from the top of Supercrack. 10/9/2010
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Near the top
photo by Mike Turner
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By Brian Adzima
From: Pittsburgh
Apr 23, 2007
| Very Good Route
Compared to alot of the other 9s (Chockstone,Roy's Lament, New Yosemite, Happy Hands, Diversity in Microcosm, Four Sheets to the Wind, Layback) this is probably the easist. |
By MPuser10840
Administrator
From: Erlangen, Germany
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.9+
| If you'd like to save on weight and/or don't have a lot of #1 and #2 Camalots, there are a lot of great placements for hexes. Plus, since this isn't too strenous of a climb, it's a great chance to practice placing them. As for Brian's comment, I would disagree that this is the easiest of all of those routes. That's just my opinion though. |
By attila
Nov 13, 2010
| The climb is strenuous because the stances to place pro are usually strenuous; much more challenging on lead than seconding. Pro is excellent. The whippers at the top probably happen because it's hard to place pro while doing the layback moves needed there. |
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Dec 18, 2010
rating: 5.9-
| I'm not good at remembering route names but I'd tend to agree with Brian... this one is not hard. People whip off the top because they don't know how to climb cracks. There are no layback moves up there. |
By Sam Stephens
Jan 21, 2011
rating: 5.9
| Brian and Ryan are right on about this route. The top is only hard because all of a sudden it's in your face unlike the rest of the route. People get to it and freak out, but if you climb smart it's just as chill as the rest of the route.
And FWIW, I've found plenty of stances that aren't "strenuous" to place gear. |
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