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Super Crack 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Christian Venetz, 1998
Season: "same same"
Page Views: 296
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Tony Bubb getting started in Supercrack (5.12-) at...

Description 

3 stars for the reputation and novelty, not for it's outstandingness as a climb itself. Speak aloud of doing it and a crowd may follow you to the base of this climb to watch. I scrounged gear to lead on and that is exactly what happened.
Climb up and right a few body-lengths to reach the beginning of the hard climbing, then start firing protection and clings to pass a few odd flakes and get established high in the crack. At eh very end, veer left to a bolted anchor.

Location 

This route is the left-trending cracks and flakes system on the right side of the big corner, facing more southwardly.

Protection 

fingers to fat fingers (.75"-1.5") and a few slings. Be mindful of some loose grains on the flakes due to lack of frequent travel.


Photos of Super Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Lindsay Fixmer leading Supercrack (no falls!) first try.
Lindsay Fixmer leading Supercrack (no falls!) firs...
Tony Bubb a little higher on "Supercrack" (5.12-) at Singapore's Dairy Farm climbing area. Photo by Lois Tan, 3/2005.
Tony Bubb a little higher on "Supercrack"...
After the crux but still a couple moves from the anchor <br />Climber: Karsten Delap
After the crux but still a couple moves from the a...
Karsten Delap onsighting Supercrack. It was dry and not too dirty... plus it was only in the high 90's that day so it was almost like cheating. hehehe
Karsten Delap onsighting Supercrack. It was dry an...
Supercrack 5.11+
Supercrack 5.11+

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