Type: | Boulder, 8 ft (2 m) |
FA: | J. Jaeger |
Page Views: | 913 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | j.jaeger on Oct 13, 2014 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2022
Details
Due to a variety of species that use Morning Sun Wall for nesting, it will be closed annually from March 1 - July 31. If you have any questions you can email dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or call the park at 303-688-5242 to confirm any of this information.
Description
Start sitting with an incut jug slot. Move your left hand up to crimpy, 3 finger pocket, find your right hand intermediate of choice, and bust straight up to chunky/raspy edge.
Starting the same, going up right hand to the crimpy pocket and locking off to the left via a bomber foot ledge is (daddy monster) "super creep" and is in the V5 or 6 range.
So, yes, these are a bit contrived, but the point is the challenge. If you are looking for majestic 4 star lines, you are in the entirely wrong park.
vimeo.com/108726154
Starting the same, going up right hand to the crimpy pocket and locking off to the left via a bomber foot ledge is (daddy monster) "super creep" and is in the V5 or 6 range.
So, yes, these are a bit contrived, but the point is the challenge. If you are looking for majestic 4 star lines, you are in the entirely wrong park.
vimeo.com/108726154
Location
This short block sits just downhill from the Cave Trail after it has skirted the base of the Morning Sun Wall. Pick up the Cave Trail from the farthest Falls Trail parking lot (it's across the road from the lot and up the short hill about 5 minutes). When the trail cuts up between the side of the cliff and a tall but slabby boulder, drop downhill about 15 yards and look into the slot.
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