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The Double Clutching Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11:11 (AKA "Welcome to the Waterfall") T 
Block Party T 
Checkin' the Oil T 
Checkin' The Oil Direct T 
Chronic, The T 
Comin In Hot T,S 
Crux Deluxe T 
Double Clutching T 
Double Helix T 
In a Blunt T 
Rude Awakening T 
Super Chronic T 
SwitchBlade T 
Terminal Mocha T 
Thin Faith T 
Wolverine T 

Super Chronic 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 2,200
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Nov 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Josh Cross narrowing his focus, and about to send!

Description 

Super Chronic is the logical extension to the classic Chronic, and had been eyed by many a climber throughout the years... This is one of the most classic, all gear 5.12- routes at the Waterfall. It combines all the best features that make this crag so spectacular! It has some 'earn your burn' funk in the beginning, then a splitter 60' run of slightly overhanging fingers, followed by brilliant edges, and gas pocket jugs at the top!! It is exciting, rowdy, positive, sustained, steep, and well protected.

After you burl your way through the original pitch (anchor on left at 75'), find a suitable rest before launching into the steep, laybacking fingers section above you (#.3). If you make it to the hands pod (#2 BD) then fire up to the pinnacle jug, and start looking for on the run protection.... Get your feet up! Then piece together the 15-20 feet of slightly overhanging face climbing up pockets and edges.

Location 

The Chronic is hard to miss and is a showcase route on this section of cliff. Look for 40' of lower angle weakness to roofish, right facing dihedral finger crack.

Protection 

My rack consisted of (8) #3 orange TCU, (3).5 BD Camalots, (4) #2 yellow TCU, (2) #1 blue TCU, (2) #0 purple TCU, (1) #2 gold BD Camalot, small/medium wires.

Though you can squeak by with a 60m rope on this route do to base blocks, a 70m rope is highly recommended.


Photos of Super Chronic Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Cross playing a smooth hand on his first go a...
Josh Cross playing a smooth hand on his first go a...
Josh Cross remembering the original pitch...
Josh Cross remembering the original pitch...
Josh at the top of the Super Chron...
Josh at the top of the Super Chron...

Comments on Super Chronic Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 9, 2013
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 14, 2010

Feeling tickled to have sent this line today in an exhausting, on the run effort. Super exciting pitch!! All gear if you don't clip the original anchor on your by it, and there is no need to do that. If you like the hard stuff up here, then you had better get on this thing.
By Josh Janes
Nov 15, 2010

Fuck yeah!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 16, 2010

Hey Josh, I concur!
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Nov 17, 2010

Nice JJ! Great description! I need to get down and throw myself at it. I miss the Waterfall!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 17, 2010

Michael, you would love this thing! Too much fun!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 23, 2010

This pitch has now seen a handful of "sports action" filled onsight/flashes! With big smiles at the end of it all. Very cool to see!
By johng govi
Nov 20, 2011

All this talk about the stealing of gear at Oak Creek Waterfall sucks, sorry to hear it. What about the stealing of route names though? Tim Maloney and did the first ascent of The Chronic in the 90's. We named the route after the then popular musical release by Dr. Dre, The Chronic. Back in the day it was considered appropriate to name any extension to an existing route a "direct finish." Perhaps you should list the route as The Chronic and credit the first ascent team, and list the Super Chronic as "Super Chronic Direct Finish." I would hate to see this great route lose its genuine identity.

Sincerely Yours, John Govi
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 20, 2011

Hi John, The Chronic has it's own original listing for this wall that Manny added in 2006. We just started calling the extension the Super Chron in a very affectionate way. The original anchors remain as well so that people have the option doing whichever they prefer. Nothing but props to you and all who ventured before in this intimidating vertical wonderland. I was able to onsight the Chronic back in the day, and it remains one of my favorites up there.
By ericm
Nov 20, 2011

Right on John and a great line to both you and Tim. Also, I was either with Carl Tobin or Darren for what we believe was the 2nd ascent of this amazing route, and thinking the grade was more like 11c and not 12.

I remember you two on the first ascent and thinking, Wow- Great Job!

Some time later Darren and I discussed the grade and 12 seemed just too much, however the grade made his paper copy of the area. Toula got a hold of that copy and put it in the newest (at the time) edition of a Cheap Way to Die and so it remained ( I think ).

I agree The Chronic goes to the first anchor and the extension is the Super Chronic. That seems fair.

Sincerely,
Eric Meudt
By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Nov 8, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great finish. I didn't think any of the moves were as hard as the cruxs on the chronic, especially with the good rest at the first anchors. I ran out of finger size cams but i was able to protect well with a DMM offset nut rack. If i did it again i would bring a few extra finger size pieces for the finish.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 9, 2013

I'd agree there is no definitive .12- crux on this route, and I always thought of it as .11+ to a time clock rest, then pumpy 5.11 to the high anchor. I've seen a handful of exciting onsights of this pitch, but I've also seen it shut down a lot of talented climbers. I've always thought .12- was a fair grade, especially for an onsight. I love this cross generational route!