Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jimmy Dunn and Paul Ross
Page Views: 2,467 total · 13/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Mar 1, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route, though only 5.10+, should not be attempted by those who are near their limit at that grade. The falls are not long but if you take one you will hit something... one side or the other of the chimney.
P1 - climb a soft crack to a ledge, then into the chimney on ruble. Belay in the back of the chimney at the ledges highpoint.
P2 - climb up a crack for 3 or so feet, then onto a loose ledge, then begin the stem fest. Clip about 7 pieces of fixed gear for the next 100 feet. Some pins, some bolts. Stem onto the pillar and do some easy moves, then a fun arete move to reach the summit. A chain anchor is now on the top.

Location Suggest change

A 30 minute hike up the Moab Rim RV trail. The climb starts at the base of the right side of the pillar.

Protection Suggest change

1 set of friends, some slings, and a few draws. You need two 60's to do the rappel. Hang your ropes on the outside of the pillar Rap from the summit standing on the inside then follow the lines around to the outside. Its a cool rappel.

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