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This route, though only 5.10+, should not be attempted by those who are near their limit at that grade. The falls are not long but if you take one you will hit something... one side or the other of the chimney.
P1 - climb a soft crack to a ledge, then into the chimney on ruble. Belay in the back of the chimney at the ledges highpoint.
P2 - climb up a crack for 3 or so feet, then onto a loose ledge, then begin the stem fest. Clip about 7 pieces of fixed gear for the next 100 feet. Some pins, some bolts. Stem onto the pillar and do some easy moves, then a fun arete move to reach the summit. A chain anchor is now on the top.
A 30 minute hike up the Moab Rim RV trail. The climb starts at the base of the right side of the pillar.
1 set of friends, some slings, and a few draws. You need two 60's to do the rappel. Hang your ropes on the outside of the pillar Rap from the summit standing on the inside then follow the lines around to the outside. Its a cool rappel.
Paul Ross and Jimmy Dunn after the FA of Super Chi...
FA of Super Chimney Ross topping out by the origin...
|Comments on Super Chimney
Aug 19, 2009
It appears that this description is not of the original route . The original route started the chimney from its left side.
Nov 25, 2009
I think the couple of bolts or so on the right edge from the belay on the shoulder (placed on the first ascent) were chopped later by Jimmy some time after Greg Childs had freed it.