|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||caughtinside on Aug 13, 2007|
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|Comments on Super Chicken||Add Comment|
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By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 21, 2008
|There are plenty of options for the first pitch, but most will find the furthest left very pleasant and climbs a nice 5.7 hand crack, not the 4" OW mentioned above which is gross. See the photo for visual aids.|
By Greg Barnes
Aug 15, 2009
John is right, take the left-most line at the start and it's good quality and fun.
The 3rd pitch is awesome - for about 80 or 100 feet. Then it gets sucky, thin slab with crumbly edges, and the belay is still a ways above you (40' or so). No pro, you can't even tie off a single knob, and since you've gone a bit right, you're looking at falling over the edge of the main blunt arete. Yikes!
Above that are another few pitches, with short bits of steep crack, runout knobs, face, etc. All a bit crumbly here and there, with lots of options. We picked some steeper knobby face to find the best climbing, but it was a bit contrived (i.e. easier dirty climbing off left).
You can also climb up from the 2nd pitch belay, traverse left all the way across the crack-to-ledge, and finish Chicken Little (5.8 R, wandering). The traverse is runout for both leader and follower.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|Fun route. I'd recommend doing it as a marathon single pitch, as long as you think about rope drag.|
By Johnny Y
Nov 15, 2012
|Linked it into one mega pitch, but had to climb the OW for less rope drag, can be protected by a #3 on the bottom half and #4 near the top, bit of a grunt but not too bad. In retrospect, it would be more enjoyable to do it as 2 pitches, rope drag is unavoidable when you link them, and that makes the last couple of face move quite challenging|