Pre-clipping the first 2 bolts is recommended. Start at the same flake as "Shiny Dog," but move up left past first 2 bolts to a big manufactured jug & 3rd bolt. Move right to a tips lieback hold (shared with "Shiny Dog") & gain a sloping shelf (12b). The first ascent managed to climb straight up, past 3rd & 4th bolt, onto the shelf & rated the climb 5.12d, but I have never seen anyone other than Chris go this way.
Rest up on the shelf & climb the overhung dihedral with the crux past the last bolt. Bob D'Antonio's Boulder Canyon guidebook says climb the arete. This is incorrect. You climb the small dihedral with the right hand slapping the arete two or three times. Gain an undercling below the right side of a small roof (Meteor Rhoadblock goes out the left side) & clip the anchor above. A final 5.12a sequence liebacks around the right side of the roof to a jug right of the anchor.
As for the manufactured jug, it was actually a replacement hold for a jug that pulled off. It is possible to do the climb without making the bottom half of the route a bit harder.
This is located between "Meteor Rhoadblock" and "Shiny Dog."
7 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.
|By Curt MacNeill|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2014
So sad this line. It actually has cool powerful movement right off the deck. However the squeeze job of bolts all around it and the manufactured jug just kind of makes it a joke. I mean, every time I climb it I have fun. I guess you just have to laugh sometimes. It seems as though the person who bolted this sector really wanted to practice putting bolts in, 'cause there everywhere. If this was an independent line with no bolts to the right or left, minus the manufactured jug, it may have been an awesome route. 'Tis a shame....