Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Just what I was looking for: another Mark Tarrant route. But what a first ascent team!! Who has not done at least 500 of Dan Hare's routes? And here we find Mark and Dan together on nothing more significant than a nifty approach to Super Slab. Not a waste of great talent however. This fine pitch is often done as a quick after-work one pitch route on superb stone or the absolutely best approach to Super Slab. You can approach Super Slab either via the ramp that takes you to the top of Suparete and the rap tree, both at the crows nest below Super Slab, or by humping around the to the West side of Redgarden. About half way up is a large tree directly below Super Slab. From here you can approach Super Slab via its (lousy) direct start or by scrambling up right to the start of Suparete.
The arete is on perfect, yellow, Eldo sandstone. The arete proper goes on four bolts at 5.11a. I found a nice spot for a couple of # 1 or 2 TCUs, after the last bolt, that took the tweak factor right back down into the black zone. Leave the TCUs behind and red line the final moves up to the tree.
Two stars for the striking, but not obvious arete, nice continuous climbing, fun moves, and a great warm-up for the rest of Super Slab. In retrospect, it's hard to imagine why the regular direct start was ever used (perhaps it was the bolts needed on the otherwise pro-less Suparete).
QDs only. Bring along some wind-sucking-icy-blue-steel nads or a couple of TCUs with your draws. Four bolts protect this 70 feet approach to Super Slab. It can be done as a fine one-pitch route itself and has a rap station at the tree on the right.
Escalar - I really like this route and have done it several times. Yes, you do need a small cam (blue Metolius tcu or fcu) about 8 feet above the last bolt. I usually belay about 15 feet below the ledge at a perfect crack (1.5 to 2.5 Friends) so that you can see your partner work out the crux, which is a bit reachy. With the supplemental gear, it is a very well protected climb and the perfect start to any of the routes that begin above the lower ramp (SuperSlab, Rosy...). Otherwise, you can rappel from the tree off to the right, or down climb from the top part of the lower ramp to the base of the route.
Yikes, this route is a brutal "warm up" for Superslab, considering it is harder. Of course better protected, I guess. I had an epic time following Suparete, but not Superslab.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 31, 2004 rating: 5.11-6c22VIII+22E3 5c
I think the book was right when it said 11a/b. There is no certain grade as it is quite height and reach dependent.
By Ivan Rezucha From: Fort Collins, CO Dec 18, 2004 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Our party agreed the crux was moving left at the last bolt. Barely in balance with hard to see and figure hand holds.
The steep part at the 2nd and 3rd bolts wasn't as bad as it looked from below after figuring the sequence, but hard to onsight if you're not strong enough to hang out for a while. I wasn't, for sure.
Clips are easy.
This assumes you meeet a certain height/reach standard...
You can TR from the ground with a 60m rope from gear (0.4 to #2 Camalot) in the crack above the final overhang.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Apr 6, 2007 rating: 5.11a/b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
Excellent route with fun moves on the lower crux. The upper "standup" crux is quite reachy. Great apph pitch to D-G, Superslab....
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Oct 5, 2008 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
There is already a "useless" bolt at the top of this climb. Why not add a second with rings so that this can be easily TR'ed, cleaned, and rapped from? Yeah there is the tree to the right to rap from, but you can't see this bolt from the ground at all and why wear on the tree. Slings on the tree are visible from the approach trail.
By Kent Pease From: Littleton, Colorado Aug 19, 2009
There is a very loose block at the top of the ramp where the business part of the route begins. A bit bigger than a 12-pack, but flatter. It is on the ledge and a natural stepping stone for the left foot when transitioning to the vertical. Beware!
Any climber can apply to ACE's Fixed Hardware Review Committee to add another bolt. If the climbing community agrees, the application is usually approved by the Park. www.aceeldo.org/fhrc/application.php
That odd bolt at the top was there before the FA. It's not in a good spot for an anchor, since it's over the top of the steep stuff and would be well over 100' from the base. I usually belay off gear about 15' lower and then scramble up and right to descend. A useful sport anchor would need to be relocated, I think.
By Noah8000 From: Vail, CO Apr 24, 2012 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
Fun time, only bringing draws. Get excited for the runout at the top!