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South Peak - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
A Better Way T 
Agony T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Bite, The T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Breakneck Direct T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
By Pass T 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 
Conn's West T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
Crispy Critter T 
Critter Crack T 
Crusher Critter T 
Debbie T 
Easy Over T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 
Front C T 
Gendarme Direct T 
Gendarme South Face, The T 
Gendarme, The T 
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 
Green Wall T 
Gunsight to South Peak T 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 
Heartburn T 
Humphrey's Head T 
Jankowitz-Kamm T 
Kosher Critter T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
Manual Dexterity T 
Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Roof Traverse T 
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 
Scrambled Leggs T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 
Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Guthrie & Murray - 1975
Page Views: 1,829
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2007  with updates from Brian Malone and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: start of route w/ handsome man


Starts on the face just left of The Burn. Climb up to a bolt and then continue on the the Ecstasy Junior belay ledge.


Standard rack with an emphasis on tiny gear.

Photos of Sunshine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow the thin left facing corner below the climb...
Follow the thin left facing corner below the climb...
Rock Climbing Photo: On Sunshine.
On Sunshine.

Comments on Sunshine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Aug 7, 2007

Great route...tiny nut work is necesary to keep you from decking before clipping that bolt about 30(?) feet up.
By Jesse Guthrie
From: Prague Czech Republic
Oct 2, 2008

It was quite an adventure when I first lead Sunshine in 1975... we didn't have the cool gear that's around these days.. so I lead it onsight, with little square wire stoppers.... I'm was 16 at the time.. so that helped.. :)and fear always helps... cheers Jesse Guthrie
By Dan Brayack
From: Marmet, WV
Sep 30, 2010

I've always wanted to do this one...Jesse - did you add the bolt or was that added later? I assume not since you were so young :)
By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 17, 2012

great face climb
By BrianWS
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Lots of good TCU/C3s for the first 15 feet and solid gear after the bolt. It is definitely runout IF you don't bring a bunch of brass before the bolt. Like many other routes of the grade at Seneca, you ought to be a confident 10+ leader to do this safely - it's consistent and sustained at the grade until after the roof.

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