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South Peak - West Face
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West Pole 
West Pole Direct Finish 

Sunshine 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Guthrie & Murray - 1975
Page Views: 1,481
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: start of route w/ handsome man

Description 

Starts on the face just left of The Burn. Climb up to a bolt and then continue on the the Ecstasy Junior belay ledge.


Protection 

Standard rack with an emphasis on tiny gear.



Photos of Sunshine Slideshow Add Photo
Follow the thin left facing corner below the climber and follow the broken crack down, that's the first half (-/+) of Sunshine.
Follow the thin left facing corner below the climb...
On Sunshine.
On Sunshine.
Comments on Sunshine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Aug 7, 2007

Great route...tiny nut work is necesary to keep you from decking before clipping that bolt about 30(?) feet up.

By Jesse Guthrie
From: Prague Czech Republic
Oct 2, 2008

It was quite an adventure when I first lead Sunshine in 1975... we didn't have the cool gear that's around these days.. so I lead it onsight, with little square wire stoppers.... I'm was 16 at the time.. so that helped.. :)and fear always helps... cheers Jesse Guthrie

By Dan Brayack
From: Marmet, WV
Sep 30, 2010

I've always wanted to do this one...Jesse - did you add the bolt or was that added later? I assume not since you were so young :)

By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 17, 2012

great face climb

By BrianWS
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13

Lots of good TCU/C3s for the first 15 feet and solid gear after the bolt. It is definitely runout IF you don't bring a bunch of brass before the bolt. Like many other routes of the grade at Seneca, you ought to be a confident 10+ leader to do this safely - it's consistent and sustained at the grade until after the roof.