Sunshine 

Hi! A rack of draws was left behind at sunshine about 6-8 weeks ago. It was a busy day at the main wall and I left them hanging for some friends to use, then had to head home. We know they were probably cleaned off the route(someone in our party is pretty sure they cleaned them off), Black Sheets of Rain, and left on a ledge at the base of one of those routes at the Big Black Face area. There are about 8-10 orange and black petzl draws and 1-2 green and black BD draws. If you see them, or saw them or happened to pick them up, please call 801-641-1962 (or email typhoontravis@gmail.com). Most appreciated!!! thanks, Travis.

More routes to add to your guide book. I do not know all the names and some off the grades are ball park. We will be starting on left side of the sunshine right of the Euphamiah Beresford Wall and left of Attitude Wall (Mean Streak). Unknown name 11a/b, 200' right is Dancing with Myself 12a, it is just left of Mean Streak. Land of the Shorties- Mechanical Animals is done 12d, in between Mechanical animals and Proudest Monkey is a mid 5.11 forgot the name it pulls roof at bottom and top. AMC wall left of Rambler, Funk in the Trunk upper end 5.11 pulls roof. Big Black Face just left of Lost Ninja is a 5.10a. Just right of Cougar's Pupil is Eye of the Tiger 5.10c.The Prow, Just right of The Rally is Bald/Shaved 5.10+ same start as Rally just move right then stem the crack. Right of Sammy Sosa is Arlen the Choad 12a then you can climb past the anchors of Sundance to Arlen the Choad's anchors it MAY? make Sundance a letter grade harder. First Wall Area Twin Pipe Papa is 12a and there is a route right of this on next buttress red rock to good rock I think it is hard 10 or low end 11. Next Wall right of Lucky Strike mid 5.12 left of Witchnose Arete 12a. When I get the names figured out I will post them.

Hey Mike. What about the route to the left of Hopeful Monsters? Isn't there a 12+/13- in there?

Greg
Yeah there is one that goes left. I think it shares the first bolt or two of Hopeful. Leave it to you to remember that.

has anyone done Hopeful Monsters yet?

Miah
Nobody has done Hopeful yet. It has seen some tries but no success. Speaking about grades getting soft, maybe it is you that is getting soft HAHA.
Merry Christmas
Mike

Is that smack I'm picking up? Your probably right, I've been stuffing my hands in to many cracks lately. It sounds like your the man for Hopeful. I just got back into the gym yesterday after not climbing for almost a month. I find that being an old man requires more than gin and good beer to get my sorry ass up the wall. On the other hand I find gear gives one the opportunity to hang whenever you like, there's something to be said for that. Have you been getting out much or is the weather holding everydody inside? Speaking of old men how are Muira and Heather?

Is there a new route somewhere on the right side of the big black face?
According to the book, there are only two routes between Candy Apple Grey and the Crack route. It seems there are three and I am having trouble determining which is Land Speed Record or Husker Don't.

Anybody?

Also, does anyone know the grade of the route left of Astro Pop on first wall that shares its start?

Reggie
I think I have the answers to your ? The farthest left most route on the big black face was put in since the guide book. So now the left most route is about mid 5.10 if you follow the bolt line, if you go out left into the choss it is about 5.9+. The 2nd route from left is Lost Ninja 5.9. That should put you on track. That would make it 7 routes on that main wall. The next route you come to after the black face is Cougar Pupil and left of that is a newer route Eye of the Tiger 5.10c. The route that starts of off Astro Pop is Feel My Heat at about 5.11a or b. Hope this helps.

One small nitpick, Eye of the Tiger is to the right of Cougar's Pupil

Anyone know the route just to the right of Lost Ninja, an 11 bolt route more on the Arete/Face of the wall with a tiny roof just before the shuts?

My guess is that route is lost ninja as there was a new route added to its left after the guidebook was written.

The parking area is closer to 2 miles from Cheyenne crossing, there is a small bridge at the back of the parking lot. Spearfish canyon has amazing rock quality, but the grades at the low end are sandbagged compared to smith rock, lander, American fork, or almost any other sport crag I have been too. The bolts are typically close enough that a fall will be short and painless, but add a grade to all the 8, 9, & 10s and you'll have a more realistic rating for your chosen route. And if you want to climb the softest grades in the country check out tensleep.

The route grades are fluffy compared to the old school ratings in the needles.