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Sunshine

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Land of the Shorties 
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Sunshine  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.29596, -103.89038 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 84,205
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Cameron Luth on Oct 4, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
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Brit F on Barney Rubble, Sunshine

Description 

This area is a good area for climbing in the winter. Lots of good climbs and great place for beginners

Getting There 

To get here either drive about 26 miles into the canyon, or go from Deadwood lead side and go to the Cheyenne crossing. Then drive about 3 miles until there is a parking area on the left. Park here and walk across the road; the trail starts right there.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.7 miles from here

109 Total Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',59],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',7],['5.9',6],['5.10',38],['5.11',25],['5.12',21],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sunshine:
Bugs Bunny   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Bunny Slope
Lost Ninja   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Big Black Face
Pakistani Route   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Big Black Face
Black Sheets of Rain   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Big Black Face
July 4th   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Euphamiah Beresford Memoria...
The Sundance    5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Prow
Playboy Bunny   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   The Bunny Slope
Albert's Arete   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Prow
Got a Pair Like a Hare   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 80'   The Bunny Slope
Cougar's Pupil   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Big Black Face
The Euphamiah Beresford Memorial   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   Euphamiah Beresford Memoria...
Sink It and Wink It   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Euphamiah Beresford Memoria...
Astro Pop   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   First Wall
Pete's Wicked Route   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 90'   The Prow
Straight Outta GE   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   Light Bulb Buttress
Rebel Yell   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   Euphamiah Beresford Memoria...
Crimptonight   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Euphamiah Beresford Memoria...
TKO   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   TKO Wall
The Encore   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 40'   AMC Wall
Hopeful Monsters   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 30'   Land of the Shorties
Browse More Classics in Sunshine

Featured Route For Sunshine
Photos by: Christian Baird

The Encore 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  SD : Spearfish Canyon : ... : AMC Wall
The Encore goes straight up the middle of the AMC wall. Begin with a difficult, bouldery sequence that trends up and left on small 2-finger pockets, leading toward a couple of jug underclings. After getting the underclings, head straight up on good holds toward one last crimpy redpoint crux. Great stone, great moves = classic (maybe classic lite since it's a bit short)....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Sunshine Slideshow Add Photo
tyler hoffart on twisted shocker @ sunshine
tyler hoffart on twisted shocker @ sunshine
Early fall colors at The Sunshine Wall, Spearfish Canyon, South Dakota.
Early fall colors at The Sunshine Wall, Spearfish ...
Stephanie takes down Bamm-Bamm.
Stephanie takes down Bamm-Bamm.
Little falls near the parking for Sunshine.
Little falls near the parking for Sunshine.
Fun 10d at the far side of the Sunshine Wall (Big Black Face).  TR is on a 10a to the left of it.  April 2004.
Fun 10d at the far side of the Sunshine Wall (Big ...
TKO Wall and The Prow.
TKO Wall and The Prow.

Comments on Sunshine Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 30, 2014
By Mikel Cronin
Nov 17, 2006
More routes to add to your guide book. I do not know all the names and some off the grades are ball park. We will be starting on left side of the sunshine right of the Euphamiah Beresford Wall and left of Attitude Wall (Mean Streak). Unknown name 11a/b, 200' right is Dancing with Myself 12a, it is just left of Mean Streak. Land of the Shorties- Mechanical Animals is done 12d, in between Mechanical animals and Proudest Monkey is a mid 5.11 forgot the name it pulls roof at bottom and top. AMC wall left of Rambler, Funk in the Trunk upper end 5.11 pulls roof. Big Black Face just left of Lost Ninja is a 5.10a. Just right of Cougar's Pupil is Eye of the Tiger 5.10c.The Prow, Just right of The Rally is Bald/Shaved 5.10+ same start as Rally just move right then stem the crack. Right of Sammy Sosa is Arlen the Choad 12a then you can climb past the anchors of Sundance to Arlen the Choad's anchors it MAY? make Sundance a letter grade harder. First Wall Area Twin Pipe Papa is 12a and there is a route right of this on next buttress red rock to good rock I think it is hard 10 or low end 11. Next Wall right of Lucky Strike mid 5.12 left of Witchnose Arete 12a. When I get the names figured out I will post them.
By Greg Parker
Administrator
Nov 17, 2006
Hey Mike. What about the route to the left of Hopeful Monsters? Isn't there a 12+/13- in there?
By Mikel Cronin
Nov 17, 2006
Greg
Yeah there is one that goes left. I think it shares the first bolt or two of Hopeful. Leave it to you to remember that.
By Miah
Dec 23, 2006
has anyone done Hopeful Monsters yet?
By Mikel Cronin
Dec 25, 2006
Miah
Nobody has done Hopeful yet. It has seen some tries but no success. Speaking about grades getting soft, maybe it is you that is getting soft HAHA.
Merry Christmas
Mike
By Miah
Jan 2, 2007
Is that smack I'm picking up? Your probably right, I've been stuffing my hands in to many cracks lately. It sounds like your the man for Hopeful. I just got back into the gym yesterday after not climbing for almost a month. I find that being an old man requires more than gin and good beer to get my sorry ass up the wall. On the other hand I find gear gives one the opportunity to hang whenever you like, there's something to be said for that. Have you been getting out much or is the weather holding everydody inside? Speaking of old men how are Muira and Heather?
By R.Walters
Apr 26, 2008
Is there a new route somewhere on the right side of the big black face?
According to the book, there are only two routes between Candy Apple Grey and the Crack route. It seems there are three and I am having trouble determining which is Land Speed Record or Husker Don't.

Anybody?

Also, does anyone know the grade of the route left of Astro Pop on first wall that shares its start?
By Mikel Cronin
Apr 27, 2008
Reggie
I think I have the answers to your ? The farthest left most route on the big black face was put in since the guide book. So now the left most route is about mid 5.10 if you follow the bolt line, if you go out left into the choss it is about 5.9+. The 2nd route from left is Lost Ninja 5.9. That should put you on track. That would make it 7 routes on that main wall. The next route you come to after the black face is Cougar Pupil and left of that is a newer route Eye of the Tiger 5.10c. The route that starts of off Astro Pop is Feel My Heat at about 5.11a or b. Hope this helps.
By Kai Segrud
May 8, 2008
One small nitpick, Eye of the Tiger is to the right of Cougar's Pupil
By Bumpas
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 31, 2009
Anyone know the route just to the right of Lost Ninja, an 11 bolt route more on the Arete/Face of the wall with a tiny roof just before the shuts?
By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Sep 30, 2009
My guess is that route is lost ninja as there was a new route added to its left after the guidebook was written.
By GhaMby
From: Heaven
Sep 8, 2010
The parking area is closer to 2 miles from Cheyenne crossing, there is a small bridge at the back of the parking lot. Spearfish canyon has amazing rock quality, but the grades at the low end are sandbagged compared to smith rock, lander, American fork, or almost any other sport crag I have been too. The bolts are typically close enough that a fall will be short and painless, but add a grade to all the 8, 9, & 10s and you'll have a more realistic rating for your chosen route. And if you want to climb the softest grades in the country check out tensleep.
By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Sep 8, 2010
The route grades are fluffy compared to the old school ratings in the needles.
By Jason McNabb
Apr 21, 2014
BHCC and American Alpine Club Trail and Crag Cleanup Event Poster (Saturday April 26th 9 a.m. - 4 p.m.)
BHCC and American Alpine Club Trail and Crag Cleanup Event Poster (Saturday April 26th 9 a.m. - 4 p.m.)
By Jason McNabb
Apr 21, 2014
The BHCC and American Alpine Club are hosting a Trail and Crag Cleanup Day at the Sunshine Wall in Spearfish Canyon on Saturday April 26th from 9 a.m. until 4 p.m. Please wear the proper attire (leather gloves) and bring any trail tools (shovel, pick axes) or tree pruning tools that you may have. The blizzard and tree damage this fall wiped out sections of the trails, and it would be great to get those taken care of and the trash in parking area picked up. We have a bunch of swag to give out as well so it should be a fun event. If you enjoy climbing in Spearfish Canyon, this would be a great way to pitch in and help out. Hope to see you next weekend!
By Pontoon
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Aug 30, 2014
So the "getting there" for Sunshine and the bunny slope both suck. Drive into the canyon 26 miles? From where?! Three miles from the crossing? Down what road and what direction. I just spent an hour lost in the dark. So thanks for sending me to what I'm guessing was the danks. I'm guessing the parking is 1.1-1.2 miles from the Cheyenne crossing down 85 east/south. I wouldn't know because I never got to Sunshine.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 30, 2014
Yo Pontoon, check this guidebook out, excellent directions, and GPS to plug in as well for the individual parking spots for each crag.

blackhillsclimbingguide.com/
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Aug 30, 2014
The parking for sunshine is 1.2 miles east of cheyenne crossing on google maps. The description of driving 26 miles into the caynon is if you are coming from I-90 and Spearfish. I prefer (if coming from rapid City) to take the exit at sturgis and go through deadwood/lead which will take you to cheyenne crossing. from here it is 1.1/1.2 miles. if you zoom on google maps you'll see the lot with a two track driveway on the SE side leading over a bridge. look even more closely on the north side of the road and slightly NW of the parking lot and you'll see the trail leading up to the crag. this trail will put you right in front of Astro Pop. Go left for the big black face and many more down that way (including the bunny slope, although you can park farther east/south down 85 as the walk from the big black face takes you past many walls and is roughly 10-15minutes) or go right for light bulb buttress and others.