This is a superb line of crimps on the S arete. Sit start on the corner (starting on the crimps left of or directly on the corner are about the same difficulty). Fire the line of crimps directly above including a big throw to a shelfy jug on the arete. Top out from here (up or directly right and up both go). Be sure to cover the small rocks quite a ways back from the wall since flying climbers come a long way out when they miss the throw.
Pads for small rocks below landing, spotters a plus also.
|By Andy Mauk|
May 21, 2002
Very fun problem. It is a little high ball so you can't be a nuss to do this problem. You have to have a lot of crimp power to pull it off.
|By jason seaver|
From: Estes Park, CO
May 22, 2002
what's a "nuss"? Just want to make sure I'm not one before I try this problem.
|By Matt Johnson|
Apr 7, 2003
What a GREAT problem!! a must do!! .........if ya come off expect to be way back from the rock..........pad the obvious rock on the ground...........not sure if it is V6 maybe V5, but you can decide that...
|By Sean Bradley|
Jul 3, 2003
The right hand arrow looking crimp a couple of moves off the ground broke off, any thought on whether this makes it harder or not?
Jun 16, 2005
As of last weekend, the ankle-breaker/enema rock at the base has been removed. Dunno who did it. Also dunno whether to thank them or not. It always made the topout a little more spicy knowing it was there.
Nov 7, 2009
rating: V5- 6C
A bit soft for V6 not harder than Sloper Chief and Kauna Roof, a bit closer to V6 if you stay on the crimps on the left hand face.
|By Cesar Valencia|
Jan 21, 2012
rating: V6 7A PG13
This was a great route with amazing crimps and big moves up top. Very exciting all around because its quit high. You want to have at least 2 pads and a good spotter below you to feel confident on the top section.
Feb 19, 2012
Curious if I did "the line" or some variation? Though if this is a variation, then the line seems contrived, but given previous descriptions, it's unclear.
I started down low on a small left hand crimp and rt hand on a large flat hold, moved up to the higher of two small but nice crimpers first, then the lower (these are still low, maybe 4-5 feet off the ground), shifted feet and went up to the very small crimps (crux?), also to the higher first then other hand to the lower... and then out right to a ticked sidepull, at this point you are on the arete and from there I was able to finish as per Pocket-Pussy. Can someone confirm this is the line?
|By Elijah Flenner|
Feb 20, 2012
rating: V5 6C
Germsause, as I understand the line, you don't use anything on the arete. From the two very small crimps, go left to a triangle-shaped hold, then go straight up and right to the end of Pocket Pussy. I have never tried to use the arete, so your line might be harder, easier, better, or worse. Might have to give it a try next time I am out there.