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 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock TR 
Atom Smasher S 
Break on Through T 
Break On Through to Chianti T 
Chianti T 
Clear-a-Sill T 
Cruisin' for Burgers T 
Ein Kluck T,TR 
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 
Gibbet, The T 
Incarnation S 
Long John Wall T 
Next to Nearly T 
Rictus T 
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 
Shock Of the New T,TR 
Strawberry Shortcut T 
Sunshine Wall T,TR 
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 
Unlead, The T,TR 
Unsaid, The T 
Uranus T 
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 
Washington Irving T 
White Rabbit T 

Sunshine Wall 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: A. & M. Sharp
Page Views: 1,169
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 11, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Christa Cline starting the committing hand travers...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route is in the popular Unsaid area of the West Ridge. Use the directions from The Unsaid, Washington Irving, or Cruising for Burgers to locate this area. Once the area is located, find the climb Washington Irving. To locate Sunshine Wall, look at the top of Washington Irving and follow a ramp down and to the left. The "ramp" is very small and is sloping down outwards, and on the right side, but is coming from the left of the top of the pitch. The ramp is anywhere from a few inches wide at the top to huge at the botom (before disappearing [beneath] a large roof). The smallness of the last bit of ramp makes the climb somewhat awkward. Follow this line down until the ramp becomes much larger, below and left of a massive roof/ bulge. That is the upper portion of Sunshine wall. A few hand-sized [pieces] protect that section, if memory serves me correctly. The crack system leading directly up to this ramp (a little chunky) is the first part of the climb.

Alternatively, to find the climb... scramble up some Class 4 rock to get to the good rock and then look just a few feet to the right of the line Chianti (left of Washington Irving). Start up the chunky crack system near a small pine tree. The crack system peters out a bit after a bulge, then go up a face/slab to the afforementioned roof, where you tend to the right to gain the small part of the sloping "ramp", which is followed up and right to the tree.

The climb is described as 2 pitches, but with some longer slings can easily be done as a single pitch.

Rap from the top of Washington Irving.

Protection 

Standard Rack with a few cams. It can be TR'd from the tree and anchors above Washington Irving.


Photos of Sunshine Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Christa Cline halfway across the hand traverse.Good finger crack for the hands, but little for the feet.
Christa Cline halfway across the hand traverse.Goo...
Peeking around the corner before the crux.
Peeking around the corner before the crux.
Christa Cline making the final step to Washington Irving at the end of the hand traverse.
Christa Cline making the final step to Washington ...
Chuck Graves powers into the strenuous finish as the sun finally comes out to warm the wall.
Chuck Graves powers into the strenuous finish as t...
BETA PHOTO
Entering the crux hand traverse.
Entering the crux hand traverse.

Comments on Sunshine Wall Add Comment
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By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Feb 14, 2002

Another way to locate this fun route is as follows:

Go up the corner immediately right of Chianti. When you get onto the big ledge below a big roof, Chianti goes left and Sunshine Wall goes right. The move around the corner protects with small cams or nuts and the ramp to the belay is the highlight of the route.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 1, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If Chianti is 3 stars, this is 2 stars. Good rock and position. Decent gear. Strenuous finish. Move right towards the arete before reaching the ramp for a better line but less gear.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Dec 26, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route should be climbed more often. The climbing is fun and puts you in a spectacular position.
By Cindy Mitchell
Dec 27, 2010

Great exposure on the hand traverse.