The Sunshine Wall is a long formation of Wingate sandstone that runs north to south for probably a mile or more. To the north (left) side of the formation, the walls are slabby with routes having mixed bolts and natural pro. The southern part of the formation has small twisted towers and steeper rock.
Sunshine Wall can either be reached by driving roads east from US 191 or by going through Arches NP on a gravel road. Probably the fastest way is from 191. Look for a good non-paved road heading east between mile markers 152 and 153. Drive about a mile, and then take a right immediately after crossing a small bridge. In another ~2 miles, take a right at a T-junction. From here start looking for Sunshine Wall. It will be obvious on the left, and a mild 4WD road cuts off left to the base.
To get to the Sunshine Wall through the park, take a left on Salt Valley trail and follow it to the edge of the park, which is obvious with a fence and a cattle guard. Keep going a couple of miles and watch for Sunshine Wall on the right.
A nice route, especially for aspiring slab leaders. (Yes, there are such people...) Technical crux is well protected (between bolts 3-5). The "mental" crux begins mid-route at the odd and tricky right-angling seam (sandy in spots). A couple widely-spaced drilled pitons protect this section. Follow seam to top.Occasional rests....to reflect and question yourself, of course. ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
This road to the sunshine wall can be a serious quagmire if there has been any recent precip. It is that "moondust" type stuff that turns into a burley slick clay when wet. We got our 2wd car stuck up to the doors trying to "go for it". Just a heads up. the newer looking line on the wall (this sight shows it as "melanoma shuffle") was a fun route, and the hidden bolt at the "roof" was a happy surprise. Fun route!
Note.....after the "T" go right for about 1.5 miles and take the second left turn,,,,,,caution,,,,,you need a 4 x 4 for this or stop short becuase you will get stuck in the soft sand. The rock is brown, white and red just like the neopolitan ice cream.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Apr 28, 2007
A group of friends ventured out to do these cool climbs a few years ago;.... the slab climbs were cool, but not as cool as the "coyboy" petroglyphs on the boulders;....the naked lady one was a favorite of our clan of climbers. This place is really worth a visit;...it's stark, quiet ( I hope) , and quite beautiful. A place to experience and enjoy with pals.
If you camp there, there are also some routes farther left, North, of the Sunshine wall proper, in a shallow amplitheater. They are moderate and leadable, with bolts in place; but some of the anchor bolts didn't have anchors in 2005. Fun to do if you have a few hours to spend. A single rope will do the trick.